Fifty by Fifty

Saison

2018-04-11T00:00:00Z

Kitt and I went to Saison before I had even thought to do this wacky challenge. At the time, I booked all four Michelin 3-star restaurants in San Francisco. All within the same week. It was an ambitious endeavour and clearly set the tone for the even bigger challenge that awaited me.

Saison was the second of the four restaurants featuring an eleven course meal only a day after a nine course meal at Benu. (My ideas aren’t always the brightest but they can be ambitious.)

We sat “in the kitchen”, which meant that we had a view of the kitchen, could see all the preparation, and could hear them yell “Yes, Chef” every time a new order came in. It was quite delightful.

We noticed some overlap with the menu at Benu: the cod, some sea urchin, and, a glazed barbecued quail. There was a caviar option that I opted into that was a bit heavy on the butter (if there can be such a thing).

The antelope was also quite delicious, much like the rest of the meal. All in all, everything was wonderful. (And if I had to choose, I’d pick Saison over Benu.)

Cosme

2018-07-15T00:00:00Z

Cosme serves up “fresh Mexican cuisine from one of the hottest young chefs in the US”, Daniela Soto-Innes.

I’m a big fan of tasting menus where everything is decided for you—including the drink pairing. Cosme only does a la carte small plates, making it difficult to choose for just the two of us without ordering too much food. If you can go as a group of four, I think that’d be ideal. That way, everybody can order a couple different things and share.

Even still, Cosme was wonderful. The place was busy but you can still carry on a conversation without yelling. The food was wonderful. I highly recommend the mole with the flat iron steak.

The cocktails were fantastic, too. I kept with the Mexican theme and had a margarita and followed that up with a paloma. The paloma was perfection.

Anthony Bourdain said, “I would like people really to pay more for top-quality Mexican food. I think it's the most undervalued, underappreciated world cuisine with tremendous, tremendous potential.”

I think he’d be pleased with Cosme.

Verdict: If you find yourself in NYC with a group of friends, go here.

Eleven Madison Park

2018-07-16T00:00:00Z

As you might imagine, getting reservations means planning ahead. Reservations for a given month open up on the 1st of the previous month and they can disappear within minutes. For our July reservation, we booked when reservations opened up on June 1st. The rest of the restaurants for this trip were planned around this one.

The service from the moment Kitt and I walked in the door was fantastic. Our host was cheerful and friendly throughout the meal.

The food. Oh my god, the food. The meal was incredible. I was nearly to tears with how good the food was.

Most of the dishes have a seasonal twist on them. Being in the thick of summer, corn was a common thread through some of the courses. Caviar served on top of a corn soufflé with a cream sauce, for example, was fantastic.

Chef Daniel Humm himself said, “The duck is probably the only recipe that I feel I have perfected fully.”

And it was fantastic. I highly recommend choosing the duck option, if you have the chance.

By far my favourite dish was the foie gras. Absolute perfection. Each bite was bliss and I savoured it through and through. Nothing I’ve had before or since compares to this dish.

One other interesting tidbit was that we prepaid for our meal when we made the booking. This actually made the end of the meal quite pleasant. There was nothing to sign and no large bill to pretend wasn’t some insanely large amount. It also meant not feeling uncomfortable about how much to tip. I wish more restaurants did this.

Verdict: Worth it. I will fly around the world to go here.

Postscript

Interestingly, Kitt and I had an opportunity to return to the restaurant in 2022 after they had switched to a plant-based menu. Sadly, this experience didn't live up to how good it was the first time around. Service was spotty with bringing out the wrong utensils numerous times and even bringing the wrong alcohol pairing for one of the dishes. I acknowledge that post-pandemic, many restaurants are struggling with staffing and high end restaurants like Eleven are likely not immune to this. The food itself was good but not spectacular enough that I'd go out of my way for it.

Le Bernardin

2018-07-17T00:00:00Z

New York in the middle of summer. A stifling 33ºC heat with a short subway ride from the Flatiron to Central Park. Le Bernardin's dress code says jacket required. I have my jacket draped over my arm to prevent myself from showing up at the front door as a puddle of sweat. The humidity was thick with a thunderstorm looming. Sure enough, as we exit the subway station and head towards the restaurant, the sky opens up. Less than ideal conditions but at least a tasty meal awaits.

We walk through the door and tell the maître d’ that we have a reservation.

“Sure thing. If you could just put on your jacket, sir. Well, it is hot, we’ll give you a few minutes to cool down. Then please put on your jacket.”

Not a big deal. I knew about the jacket requirement. We are escorted to our table. On our way, a server informs me that I must put on my jacket. “Yeah, I know,” I think to myself.

As we are seated, our waiter for this lunch-time meal also informs me of my need to put on my jacket.

Not off to a great start.

The food, however, didn’t disappoint. Each of the French-style dishes were tasty but didn’t seem to be pushing any boundaries or presenting any surprises. It’s what one might expect when they think of what a Michelin 3-star restaurant experience should be like.

The wine pairings were nicely done, all complimenting the dishes. Le Bernardin has knowledgeable sommeliers wearing tastevins (a silver cup) around their neck. (Okay, maybe a little pretentious but considering the jacket requirement, I suppose this shouldn’t come as a surprise.)

The service fell off towards the end of the meal. As the restaurant filled with patrons, the servers for our table didn’t come by as often and there was more time between each of the dishes.

They asked if I wanted a coffee and I said yes to an espresso. I consider the espresso the end-of-the-meal drink. It’s usually the last thing had while the bill is signed. But served with the espresso was the final dessert of petit fours and a dessert wine. A bit surprising.

At the very end, we were left waiting for our bill.

I expected more out of the experience and after Eleven the night before, Kitt and I both definitely left Le Bernardin disappointed.

Alinea

2018-08-09T00:00:00Z

The 50 Before 50 Challenge continues. This time, in Chicago for the fifth of fifty restaurants. I flew in just for this, meeting up with Kitt in the morning of the reservation and leaving the next day.

They were very specific about not arriving late, so as not to miss any of the show. We arrived a half hour early, rain beginning to come down. There’s no bar at the restaurant, so we walked two doors down to an Italian restaurant that had a fantastic selection of tasty martinis, if you’re looking to kill a bit of time before your meal.

At Alinea, much of the enjoyment comes from the experience. This started from the moment we walked through the front door. We ascended the stairs to the second floor and I was delighted by the smell. It was fragrant and slightly citrusy.

The staff was friendly and helpful throughout the meal. Like Librije’s Zusje in Amsterdam, a bit of theatrics was in store throughout the meal.

A bowl of salt was lit on fire at one point with embers on top. Later it was revealed that a baked potato lay underneath and was one of the dishes.

At another point, we were all led to the kitchen to be presented with a root beer style cocktail and a pizza pocket inspired dish. (Both were delicious.)

The food throughout was quite good. The starting dish was a bouquet of flowers that was very tasty. It was paired with a bowl of caviar on cream. The caviar was okay but didn’t compare to some I’ve had elsewhere. (The best I’ve had so far was at Quince in San Francisco.) My favourite dish was probably the spanner crab, followed by the octopus. The rest was wonderful but not transcendental.

I did the wine pairing and they did a wonderful job. There was a bit of surprise when they brought out a red wine in between a couple whites. Normally, restaurants start with a champagne and then switch to whites for the first few plates (that pair with the vegetable or fish dishes that normally come at the beginning of a multi-course meal like this). Finally, the last couple dishes with meatier plates will be paired with reds. (And lastly, something sweet to go along with dessert like a port or moscato.) I went out of my way to compliment the sommelier on the fine choices.

Verdict: Worth travelling to. Food, wine, and experience come together for a wonderful evening.

The Photos

Geranium

2018-11-22T00:00:00Z

Kitt and I ended up travelling to Copenhagen with her parents to celebrate Thanksgiving and I set up reservations at Geranium. The restaurant is situated on the 8th floor of the building where the Danish national football club plays—an interesting location to be sure.

From the moment we walked in the restaurant, the service was fantastic and friendly. The kitchen prep area sits at one end of the venue and was neat to take a peek every now and then into what might be coming up next. (It’s a bit difficult to see from halfway across the restaurant. There is a table right next to the prep area that you can book.)

The team of chefs working away on the upcoming meal

Over the course of the meal, the servers really made us feel special. I enjoyed their synchronicity with dish placement and I definitely enjoyed them topping up my glass of wine.

As an aside, I find wine pairings to be confusing. Some places will do a glass with each course. I like to enjoy the particular wine before, during, and after the particular dish it’s paired with. Some places, however, will pair a wine with two to three courses. As such, I’ll finish the wine after a dish, only to have another plate come out with no wine to go with it.

Having them top up my glass is nice but I also don’t want to be completely sloshed and stumbling a third of the way into the meal!

The food itself was delightfully yummy. There wasn’t a bad dish to be had. The courses were mostly pescatarian, with a single duck course at the end.

However, not a single dish made the world disappear as my entire life became about this food in my mouth at that very moment. The best way to describe it is that every dish is a 9/10. A perfectly formidable rating but nothing was a 10 out of 10. Consistent and delicious but not daring.

Verdict: I think there are other places I’d seek out before Geranium. It’s definitely on the pricey side but, at the same time, it was a wonderful experience and I don’t think you’d be disappointed.

Also, I want their wine cellar.

Relae

2018-11-24T00:00:00Z

Relae was a more relaxed and intimate vibe than Geranium. It was just Kitt and I this time and we were placed at the bar at the edge of the kitchen—an ideal spot to watch everything going on, including the two chefs prepping right in front of us.

The chef working away on a dish right in front of us.

I enjoyed the chill environment with soft funk music playing throughout.

The restaurant offers a short and long menu and of course we went with the long. I went with the wine pairings while Kitt went for the juice pairings. Ever since I had a juice pairing at KOKS, I’m always delighted to see it at other places.

The courses came out in staccato, creating a very jazzy feel to the presentation. Different chefs and servers would show up to present and talk about a particular dish. We didn’t feel rushed. Rather, we were delighted by the slightly frenetic feel of the evening.

Similar to Geranium, the meal was almost entirely pescatarian save for one duck course. (Well, maybe you’d consider it two courses since it was two dishes served at the same time.)

My favourite trio of courses was the seafood: squid followed by a bbq trout followed by a deep fried oyster. The BBQ trout, in particular was absolutely succulent and filled me with delight.

If you find yourself in Copenhagen, I highly recommend you find your way here. It's not too expensive, the food is fantastic, as is the overall experience.

Postscript

Unfortunately, Relae has sinced closed its doors.

Quintonil

2018-12-10T00:00:00Z

I feel like an addict seeking desperately for his next fix. Each restaurant I go to, I wonder how many of those Ratatouille moments will hit me. Kitt and I flew to Mexico City to take in the next couple restaurants.

We arrive at Quintonil, just as it opens, and are quickly taken to our seats. The decor is simple, with maybe a dozen tables in the restaurant. Our table is right at the back, near the entrance to the kitchen. Sadly, without a view of the frenetic dance that I envision behind. Throughout the evening, the servers are in and out like bees to a hive.

I have a view of the bar. I can see the wine glasses being lined up, the next bottle being prepared. The style of glass provides a hint of the next dish to come.

The food was delightful. There were some unexpected surprises in the bunch that stood out. Like a nixtamalized tomato that tasted warm and rich instead of cool and acidic. (Today I learned about nixtamalization.) The bread was probably the best bread I’ve ever had, with a crust that was crunchy but not too thick, and a butter that disappeared way too quickly. (Thankfully, they brought more.)

We were delighted and intrigued by the avocado tartare with escamoles. It had a wonderful contrast in textures and a “grain” that we couldn’t figure out what it was. Which leads me to another “today I learned,” escamoles are the edible larvae and pupae of ants. As Wikipedia says, “they taste buttery and nutty.” It’s probably for the best I didn’t know that at the time.

My favourite dish of the evening was the pork in chile pasado. It was flavourful and balanced. Another dish that I really liked was the Jerusalem artichoke tamale.

My favourite dessert was the Sapodilla fruit rocks. It was such a new flavour that every bite was savoured.

This Mexican wine had a hilarious label. The alcohol pairings were a nice mix of Mexican and from around the world.

The alcohol pairings were quite good. Every drink, with the exception of one, paired extremely well. A particular standout was a Mexican beer, Finisima. It had a Belgian quality that was smooth and easy to drink. We also had an “orange” wine from the country of Georgia. Yet another “today I learned,” orange wine isn’t made from oranges.

Not every dish was spectacular. The ceviche was a tad too citrusy. And there was a potato dish that was fine but a bit bland. The menu says it was supposed to be fish, so I suspect there wasn’t any good fish available that evening. These dishes were still a 7/10, so it’s not like I still didn’t enjoy them.

All in all, it was a wonderful evening. If you find yourself in Mexico City, I highly recommend spending an evening here. With the currency exchange right now, it’s an exceptional value.

Pujol

2018-12-11T00:00:00Z

Quick on the heels of Quintonil, was a popover to Pujol. They are in the same city, after all. The two restaurants are mere blocks away from each other. And fun fact, the husband and wife team that own Quintonil used to work at Pujol.

I signed us up for the omakase taco experience. For those not familiar with omakase, it’s a “chef’s choice” experience often found at sushi restaurants. (Speaking of, the omakase experience at Bamboo Sushi in Portland, Oregon, is fantastic.)

We arrived and were seated at the bar in the middle of a string of people also there to take in the tacos. There’s plenty of table space throughout the restaurant with a more traditional tasting menu. This omakase experience is its own thing and definitely felt Japanese-inspired.

With the dinner were three alcohol pairing choices: mexican beer, mezcal, or sake. (See? There’s that Japanese influence.) Having never tried much mezcal, I was excited to try it and what better way than to have a glass with each course!

The corn-themed evening kicked off with a trio of “street snacks” that included baby corn, a puffed corn tortilla with caviar and cream, and (if I recall correctly) a tofu paste. My descriptions are not doing any of these justice. I was floored but how amazing it was and had me excited for the rest to come.

Next up was a tetela—a corn triangle—filled with beans with an uni salsa to top.

From there, we moved through a series of taco courses: Eggplant, then amberjack, a scallop tostada, a seabass belly taco al pastor, and finally, a soft-shell crab taco.

I think the amberjack and the seabass were my favourites of the bunch.

Then, the pièce de résistance: the Mole Madre. I watched chef Enrique Olvera featured on Chef’s Table and in it they talked of this mole, a sauce cooked for over a year. Since that show has aired, it has continued to cook. On this evening, it had been 1762 days. That’s nearly five years!

The mole madre is served with a mole nuevo in the middle, allowing a contrast between the old and the new. And let me just say that it did not disappoint. I would bathe in this, it was so good.

Alas, all good things must come to an end. This meal came to a close with a trio of desserts and a final churro. It was probably the best churro I’ve had, with a crunchiness and tasty balance that wasn’t too sweet or too cinnamon. (I was told to try churros at El Moro but didn’t have a chance to get there. A reason to go back!)

Mexico City didn’t disappoint.

The Clove Club

2019-01-18T00:00:00Z

I’m heading to a conference in Nottingham and decided it'd be worthwhile to spend a week beforehand in London taking down a few restaurants from the list. I’ve managed to book reservations at all four of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants that are here. Then the worst happens: I come down with a cold right before everything.

I’ve flown over an ocean and spent a lot of money to be here and don’t want to miss out on this opportunity. I get as much rest as I can, skipping out on any sightseeing to make sure I’m in good enough shape for dinner. Evening comes and I’m feeling good enough to venture out.

We have arrived. Kitt and I are patiently outside waiting for the restaurant to open.

Dinner comes and we’re one of the first people at the restaurant. We’re in a room with about a dozen tables and with full view of the kitchen. I’m impressed at how much work is done in a rather small space. (Small kitchens are something we’ll discover is rather common among the London restaurants.)

I’m fully in with the usual wine pairings, starting off with a decent sparkling wine. Sadly, I’m writing this up well after the fact and have since forgotten the quality of the wine pairings. I really should write this stuff down at the time. On the flip side, our sommelier was the spitting image of British comedian, Michael McIntyre, and made for an amusing evening.

A small collection of appetizers come out to start the meal. A crab cream in a cracker, a small bite of fish on a seaweed cracker, and a delightfully yummy fried chicken bite. To end the collection, was a breaded ball of haggis. It didn’t have the strong peppery punch that the haggis I had in Edinburgh. Still tasty, though.

A beet creme dish acts as a palette cleanser as we go into a series of fish dishes. A salmon tartar in a cream sauce topped with caviar. A scallop topped with truffle and mushrooms. A sardine on a cracker that was phenomenal and one of the best dishes of the evening. There was another fish dish served with a number of mushroom sauces.

Next up was a quartet of beef dishes. A smoked beef venison served into a smoking glass jar. On the plate was venison served with white truffle. I know many people love truffle but I don’t find it adds much to the dish.

There last two mains were pork. One served three ways with a beet sauce. The other crispy pork belly tacos. Soooo good.

After a lovely sorbet to, once again, cleanse the palette, we had a wonderful piece of apple pie with a madeira pairing. If I recall correctly, it was the same one we had at Saison. A great choice!

Meeting Chef McHale

At the beginning of the meal, we had made mention to our waiter that we were in the midst of this crazy adventure. To end the evening, he offered us a chance to have a picture with the chef (and one of the owners), Isaac McHale.

McHale was very amiable and very giving of his time, continuing the conversation for some time. (McHale is Scottish, which explains the haggis “doughnuts”.)

The entire evening was delightful and can highly recommend coming here.

Lyle’s

2019-01-19T00:00:00Z

After The Clove Club the night before, walking into Lyle’s, Kitt and I noticed a much more relaxed atmosphere. However, like the night before, I still found myself battling a cold, and feared that I might not enjoy the most out of the evening.

Lyle's looking rather non-descript from the outside

The menu presented listed four courses, so I had a feeling we needn’t be too ambitious this evening. I also chose to stick to just water instead of doing the usual wine pairing. Best try to stay as healthy as I can.

The first appetizer that arrived was like a puffed up flat bread with what I think was green beans and prosciutto on top. (The waiter described it so quickly.) This was a fantastic start to the meal. The warm, comfortable flavours was just what I needed.

The second appetizer to follow was broccoli served with a cream and lemon crumble. Again, the dish hit the spot.

The first course was Jerusalem artichokes, with walnuts and preserved lemon. Wow. I swear I could taste a hint of chocolate in this dish. It had an amazing taste and texture. Absolutely my favourite dish of the evening.

Unfortunately, the second half of tonight’s meal would not live up to the first half.

Sardines were up next. Considering how good the sardine dish was at The Clove Club, Lyle’s was a definite disappointment. The head and tail and bones were all left, and it made enjoying the dish difficult. I believe sardines are meant to be consumed, bones and all, but we found ourselves spitting out bone after tiny bone.

The Dexter Rib was up next. It was aged 16 weeks. I suspect if I hadn’t been sick, I would’ve really enjoyed this dish. Instead, it seemed to lack any flavour. I think an onion or garlic or mushroom sauce would’ve been a better match. But it’s possible my taste buds just weren’t up for it this evening.

The last dish, the dessert, was a russet apple topped with vanilla ice cream on a buckwheat shortbread. I found the shortbread gritty and the apple flavourless. The ice cream was good.

We were left with a small bite-sized cake that was so buttery and, oh, this was a good treat to end on. It brought me back to the first dish of the evening and I left happy.

Lyle’s has a different menu every day. I’d like to go back someday and try something different when I’m not sick. If you’ve only got one night and one restaurant to try in London, I’d try one of the others first.

The Ledbury

2019-01-21T00:00:00Z

With that cold virus still lingering days after beginning this London adventure, Kitt and I venture on for A Night at The Ledbury!

Like at Lyle’s, I chose to forego the wine pairing. It pains me a bit since we’ve learned that The Ledbury is highly rated for its wine selection. Well, on Foursquare, it is. (And as we’d learn later, one of the sommeliers was a Vancouver native!)

We were given a choice between an a la carte menu or the tasting menu. As is likely no surprise to anybody, we went with the tasting menu.

A delightful selection of cheeses.

In quick succession came a trio of canapés. All three of which were delicious and a sign that this evening was going to be amazing.

All of the dishes at the Ledbury were consistently good. The oyster to start was delicious. The Agen Prune was phenomenal. I enjoyed the deer served three ways. The cheek was tender. The tongue a bit tougher but still prepared well. And lastly bone marrow that was delicious.

We overstuffed ourselves by adding a cheese course. We probably could have skipped the cheese. Their cheese selection was okay but not phenomenal.

The desserts included a passionfruit curd—the palette cleanser, and a satisfying one at that. Next were sugared donut balls followed by a brown sugar tart that was sublime. They even brought us extra donuts. Yup, we definitely left stuffed.

Inside the tiny kitchen. There's a glass case on the top shelf at the back of the kitchen that has two taxidermied birds. Shot by the owner himself. (He's into hunting and the dishes often feature game.)

We mentioned to the waiter that we were doing this food adventure, as we had at The Clove Club. At the end of the meal, they offered to have us meet the chef, Jake Leach, and we kindly took them up on the offer. The kitchen at the Ledbury is in the basement and surprisingly small given the size of the restaurant. It’s amazing what they put together in such a small space. I really enjoyed meeting the kitchen staff and chatting with them. The whole team seemed so young! But I think it’s likely a sign that I’m getting older.

I highly recommend the Ledbury. If you ever find yourself in London, it’s worth the trip.

Dinner by Heston Blumenthal

2019-01-22T00:00:00Z

Dinner by Heston Blumenthal (DHB) didn’t end up being the experience I wanted or hoped for. The menu pulls from recipes as old as the 1300s. A tasting menu over the course of many centuries sounded like a delight.

The chefs toiling away.

Andy, who joined Kitt and I for the meal, is pescatarian and, unfortunately, the restaurant didn’t allow any changes to their tasting menu. As a result, we had to pick from the a la carte menu. This was a bit surprising since any restaurant we’ve been to so far has been willing to work around any food restrictions.

For a starter, I had the Rice & Flesh. This was one of the oldest recipes on the menu dating back to 1390. It was warm and rich.

For my main, I went with the Hereford fillet with triple cooked fries. The steak was perfection. The fries were perfection. It came with a mushroom ketchup that was fantastic. It still doesn’t beat a Kobe steak but it was probably within the top 10 steaks I’ve ever had.

Lastly, for dessert, I had a delicious Sambocade. A sambocade is like a light fluffy cheesecake with some fruit inside of it. It was a perfect end to a lovely evening.

The meal was wonderful. But I would definitely like to return to properly try the tasting menu. There is an option to book a seat within the kitchen and be served by the chef. The next time I head to London, I’ll have to see if I can have this experience.

Maido

2019-04-09T00:00:00Z

The next leg of this journey takes Kitt and I to Lima, Peru. To attempt to make leaps, I wanted to go to a city that had multiple restaurants. Lima has three! With reservations seemingly available at all three, flights and hotel are booked. Then we proceed to make the reservations. Maido and Astrid are secured. The third, Central, however, was misleading. They didn’t have availability for their main restaurant but did for their sister restaurant Kjolle.

Well, that’s unfortunate. Two out of three ain’t bad. Meatloaf told me that once. (Mmmm, meatloaf.)

Maido was a short 15 minute walk from the hotel and we arrived just before the doors opened. We could see over the fence and into the foyer of the restaurant, stairs leading up to the main dining room. The staff begin to line up on the stairs. The front door opens and we make our way up.

In Japanese style, each person is greeted with shouts of “Maido!” from the sushi bar. The sushi bar is where we are parked, conveniently placed at one end to see everything that is going on.

One of the friendly chef's for the evening

Arriving early was advantageous. It was relatively quiet as the restaurant took an hour or so to fill fully. (We nearly finished our meal by the time a couple was placed beside us at the sushi bar.)

The food

The 11 course meal—dubbed the Nikkei Experience—was, as you might have surmised by now, Japanese-inspired. The chef of the restaurant, Mitsuharu Tsumura, is a native Peruvian but of Japanese descent. But don’t expect a lot of sushi rolls. The meal mostly resembled what you’d find at many restaurants in the 50 Best list with fish, beef, and soup dishes.

Now, I feel like I did Maido a disservice comparing it to “many restaurants”. The meal was quite delicious with some mind-blowing courses in the mix.

A ceviche course early on was well balanced and not too acidic or vinegary as many ceviches can be. The nigiri was delicious: one piece had scallops with uni and the other had toro. I’ve grown to absolutely love scallops and this hit the spot (even if I felt that the uni didn’t add much).

The next dish was cod marinated in miso topped with Bahuaja nuts, apple gel, and mushroom powder. The ratatouille moment hit me. I savoured every bite of this. The slight crunch of the thinly sliced nuts provided a wonderful balance against the moist cod. The sweetness of the apple gel balanced with the nuttiness and the fish. It was harmony.

The absolute pinnacle of the meal was Beef Short Rib 50 Hours. Fifty. Hours. I think I cried. Oh my, this was unbelievable. It was indescribably delicious. The potato cream and crispy rice it was served with was also a perfect complement to the beef.

And then there was some stuff after that. Whatever.

I kid, I kid.

The meal ended well with delicious dishes of sweetness. The mochi was a delightfully tasty end to a wonderful meal. Considering all the good food in Lima, I highly recommend making a trip of it and add Maido to your plans.

The photos

Astrid y Gaston

2019-04-13T00:00:00Z

After Maido and Kjolle, expectations were high. Like the other places, we arrived just before it opened. A&G’s venue was really upscale, though. Private grounds, with valet service, and a palatial staircase leading up and into the restaurant proper.

Gotta look suave for the food

We were sat at a table right in front of the kitchen. Oh, perfect! À la carte menus were presented and we were momentarily confused. “Can we do the tasting menu?” There was some confusion and hesitation on the waiter’s part. It would seem that we may not be able to do the tasting menu. He leaves and returns to let us know that we were in luck and could do it! Whew!

The Food

The meal kicks off with a trio of canapés: uni ceviche crouton, a seafood empanada, and a crispy potato bite. This was followed by an uni panna cotta and after that, a small bowl of ceviche. (Peru is known for its ceviche and we made sure to enjoy it throughout the week. I’d like to say that this was the last of the ceviche, considering we flew out the next day, but no, we had it once more for lunch at a nearby restaurant before heading to the airport!)

Next up was a bread basket filled with a tasty variety of breads. We have to be careful as it would be really easy to fill up on bread alone.

After the bread, we had a crab and albacore taco that was delicious. (Memories of Pujol come flooding back!)

The fifth dish, a fried pork croquette on a bed of lentils, was a bit larger in size. The cherry tomatoes were fresh and tasty. Contrast that with the sixth dish, a single scallop-stuffed ravioli in a citrus butter. Mmmm. The seventh dish was lobster and fava beans in a tangier sauce.

The eighth and ninth dishes were the meaty mains. The former, a crispy pork belly. The latter, a stewed beef on rice. Heavier, richer dishes that definitely needed a light chaser. Thankfully, dessert was to follow!

First, an apple sorbet to cleanse the palate. After that, ice cream with what I believe was shaved black fig.

What’s good after a wonderful meal? A Cuban cigar, of course. Made of chocolate. And pop rocks. That’s right, the chocolate ganache that filled the chocolate shell crackled in our mouths and filled me with child-like delight! What a surprise and a fantastic end to a delicious meal.

Chocolate Cuban Cigars

Last but not least, we were presented with a magical box that unfolded in six different ways to present an increasingly larger selection of candy treats. I was completely stuffed by this point and was very modest in my selection, despite the prodding by the waiter to grab more.

The Wine

I felt a bit sorry for the sommelier. It looked like he was having a rough night, running from table to table. I wondered if they were short staffed. He was friendly, though his explanations a bit rushed and timing with the meals a bit off. I appreciated being told that a drink was for multiple dishes.

The wine pairings were lovely and well-paired. I was hoping we’d get a copy of the menu, which usually includes the wines paired. But with the confusion at the beginning of the meal, we left without it. So while I can’t remember what I had, I know it was good. They didn’t do anything out of the ordinary. A sparkling to start, some whites, some reds. A mild sweet wine at the end. I think it was a muscat.

Overall

I went into this with my expectations higher and, unfortunately, I didn’t feel like it met those expectations. The meal was tasty and there weren’t any disappointing dishes. The bread basket and the cigars were the highlights—likely because they stood out from the usual fare. I had been to the location in Bogota a couple years prior and this experience definitely surpassed that one—in inventiveness and flavour.

If you’re in Lima and trying to take down all of the restaurants, by all means, head to A&G. However, Central, Kjolle, or Maido would be higher on my list.

The photos

De Librije

2019-05-14T00:00:00Z

In June of last year, Kitt and I were in Amsterdam. While in town for a conference, I wanted to book as many Michelin-starred restaurants as I could. I managed to get reservations at three of them, including Librije’s Zusje—a 2 star restaurant in the heart of Amsterdam, and the sister restaurant of De Librije. (Zusje means sister in Dutch.) That mini trio ended up kicking off this grand fifty adventure after Andy had joined us for one of them and told us about his plans to tackle fifty before fifty.

Now, almost a year later, I had been asked to speak at a conference in Utrecht and that seemed like a great opportunity to book De Librije, tucked in the little town of Zwolle, about an hour’s drive outside of Amsterdam. I ended up backing out of the speaking opportunity but followed through with the restaurant adventure.

De Librije isn’t just a restaurant. It’s a hotel, too. A former women’s prison that retains a lot of its previous form, with cell doors on the hotel rooms. I chose to up the ante and booked the night at the hotel, saving myself a drive after dinner.

If prison life meant food like at De Librije, arrest me right now.

Dinner

We arrived for dinner at the very start of the evening. We’ve noticed that taking the earliest sitting offers up a bit more quiet time before all the guests have arrived. There’s a seating area on the edge of the inner courtyard where we’re presented with an aperitif and a couple snacks made of prawn and pork. (They said bacon but it looked more like a puffed pork rind.)

After the champagne, we were seating in the glass-covered courtyard with a lovely view of the room.

The staff presented us with rings as an offering of friendship. These aren’t just any rings, however. They are topped with a veal tartare and caviar. A delectable amuse bouche to kick off the meal followed by bite-sized morsels of seafood presented four ways.

After that, we settled into the six main courses. Oyster with goat cheese and seaweeds, Norway lobster with tomato kombucha, and a Monkfish ‘curry’.

Caviar presented on an egg with sour cream, chives and croutons. An egg is cut and emptied and then the ingredients are layered within the shell of the egg, topped with the caviar.

We have a sole with fermented corn and veal’s tongue. After which, we get a tour of the kitchen. We learned that Jonnie Boer hosts cooking classes including learning with the Big Green Egg, that I know a lot of my friends are into.

After the tour, we have our final main: tender lamb with wild garlic and pulses. (A pulse is an edible seed that grows in a pod.)

Dessert

To transition into dessert, we had a freeze dried blue cheese sprinkled on passionfruit and garam masala.

Then an ice cream man wheels his cart over to present us with our options. I can’t recall what I chose but I do recall it being delicious.

The last dish is a trio featuring mandarin, blood orange, and bergamot.

Of course, it doesn’t end there. There’s often that last presentation of petit fours. There’s a whole collection for us to choose from. Macarons, truffles, and a creme brûlée made inside a walnut shell, the sugar blowtorched right at our table.

The Experience

One thing Librije does well is experience. Both here and at Zusje, there was a story with the meal. At Zusje, there was the flower centrepiece that became part of the meal. At De Librije, it was the story of his family, a postcard with a picture of Boer’s father on it and the rings of friendship.

From arriving at the hotel to leaving the next day, it was an enchanting 24 hours in Zwolle. If you were ever looking for a remarkable anniversary getaway, this would be a worthy destination.

The Photos

Hof van Cleve

2019-05-16T00:00:00Z

After De Librije, we drove the three hours to Ghent, in Belgium, where we rented a delightfully quaint AirBnb. The next restaurant on the adventure, Hof van Cleve, is a short 25 minute drive outside of town in a place called Kruishoutem.

Ghent is an impressive city filled with lots of historic architecture and churches. We were there at seemingly the best possible time of year. The weather was warm and pleasant and the streets were quiet. The main tourist areas weren’t completely packed. You could easily get around without feeling overwhelmed. I was so charmed by the city that I want to go back!

But let’s not forget about dinner!

On the last bit of road to Hof van Cleve.

The short drive leads us to a picturesque Belgian countryside. It is an absolutely, stunningly gorgeous sight to behold. A tiny road cuts through a field of grass. Towards the end of this road is a building on the right, its gates splayed open to welcome us.

Inside the restaurant, the venue is simplistic, understated, and refined.

The Meal

Our meal begins with a quintet of snacks: langoustine, naan with langoustine with tasty pomegranate, cuttlefish in miso, Holstein with eggplant and a green curry, and finally, sardine with cherry tomato and fregola.

After the sardine experience at Lyle’s, I’m now hesitant when sardine is presented but my fear was unfounded this evening. The sardine was tasty. All of the snacks were delicious and a good start to the meal.

Next up were the 6 main courses. Sea bass, eel, lobster. Then pollack, langoustine, and veal. There was a Japanese influence throughout the meal. From the miso, to the sea bass presented like sushi with ponzu and black rice, to the dumpling presented at the end. Not a bad dish in the mix, with everything coming out consistent and delicious.

Dessert was a Gariguette strawberry with rhubarb, basil, and jasmine rice. A not-too-overwhelming transition into the end of the meal. That was followed with a “chocolate grenade” with morello cherry, soy, and blood orange.

Of course, a meal never ends there. There’s always a bit more that comes. We ended with beignets and a Madeleine.

The very end of our meal, however, ended on a weird note. There was a cart of petit fours being trollied about but it never made it to our table. And no staff came back to our table for 45 minutes. We had to flag down a waiter to settle our bill and be on our way. It soured what was an overall pleasant evening.

I became smitten with Ghent and would be delighted to make my way back there again. If you ever find yourself there, swing by Hof van Cleve but it’s probably not worth going too far out of your way to go here.

On the streets of Ghent

The Photos

Benu

2018-04-10T00:00:00Z

When you’re playing your own game, you can make your own rules. What happens when a restaurant makes it onto the list after you’ve been to the restaurant in a previous year? What are the chances of that happening? Turns out, high enough.

Last year, a couple months before the embarking on the journey of visiting the World’s 50 Best Restaurants, Kitt and I went on a mini-quest: go to all the Michelin 3-star restaurants in San Francisco.

At the time, this included Benu, Saison, Coi, and Quince. Amazingly, I managed reservations at all four of which Benu was first.

Being first meant that everything would be compared to this one. There was some cod, and sea urchin, and some glazed quail. A surprising amount of overlap with the menu at Saison. I’m unsure if that’s a side effect of being only a few short blocks from each other.

The meal was wonderful. Although, recalling the experience over a year later, I don’t recall much of the meal standing out from the rest.

On the other hand, the beverage pairings, as they call it, did stand out. They broke away from doing a standard wine pairing and, instead, tried to pair different alcoholic beverages with the food including beer and sake. One in particular that has become a new favourite of mine is the Rodenbach Grand Cru. It’s sweet with just a hint of sour (and surprisingly available at my local liquor store).

I regret my decision to refrain from taking pictures when visiting the first few restaurants on this adventure. It seemed so uncouth. I’ve since thrown my pretenses out the window.

Atelier Crenn

2019-07-12T00:00:00Z

When on a major quest, sometimes a side quest is in order. One such restaurant side quest of mine is to go to every Michelin 3-star restaurant in the Bay Area. Up until last year, that list included seven restaurants: Manresa, Saison, Benu, Quince, Coi, The Restaurant at Meadowood, and The French Laundry.

Kitt and I had gone to Saison, Benu, Quince, and Coi in one fell swoop during an ambitious week that completed all of the 3-star restaurants in San Francisco proper but still left three restaurants outside of the city.

Manresa, down in Los Gatos, and The Restaurant at Meadowood, up in St Helena, were visited on subsequent trips to the Bay Area. That just left The French Laundry. That is, until the 2019 list came out—both for Michelin and the World’s 50 Best. Atelier Crenn made it onto both. SingleThread was awarded its 3rd Michelin star but didn’t make the top 50. This side quest just became three times harder.

With another trip planned to the Bay Area (and Napa Valley, in particular), I was going to do my best to book all three. Reservations for The French Laundry and Atelier Crenn opened up on the same day. I snagged a reservation for The French Laundry but Atelier Crenn’s online booking showed the particular weekend I would be in town as unavailable. That’s unfortunate. Might as well add myself to the waiting list, just in case.

A month later, reservations for SingleThread opened up and another evening of anticipatorily delicious food was booked.

I was disappointed to miss out on Atelier Crenn but I consoled myself with the knowledge that another trip to the Bay Area was likely and I’ll get my opportunity to go then.

With less than a week before the trip to Napa Valley, I received an email letting me know that a spot may have opened up at Atelier Crenn. I instantly rushed to the site only to be told that there wasn’t anything. Maybe if I just try again? Sure enough, it worked. There was availability! I’ll be able to complete the side quest!

The Evening

Kitt and I took an evening stroll from our hotel to the restaurant situated discretely in the Cow Hollow neighbourhood. The restaurant is easy to miss with its low-key signage just inside the doorway.

We were immediately taken to our seat, despite being a few minutes early for our reservation. I discovered why this weekend wasn’t initially available when I tried to book it months ago: Dominique Crenn does collaborations with chefs around the world. This time, it was with Antoni Luis Aduriz of the restaurant Mugaritz, based in Spain and currently 7th on the World’s 50 Best list.

My expectations have now been set quite high.

The evening meal kicked off with a refreshing amuse-bouche: a twist on a Kir Breton, a French cocktail.

The Kir Breton

The pre-bread courses consisted of a geoduck, sea urchin & stone fruit “tart”; oyster; a dumpling in the shape of a pillow; and an amusing presentation of caviar on an ice tongue hand-fed to us. This was followed by a tomato dish and zurrukutuna—a Spanish dish with salt cod and bread.

The bread was an amazing brioche loaf. Well-made brioche bread I could eat by the truck-load and this was no exception.

Between the bread and the desserts were an abalone, cabbage & smoked crème dish that was delicious, followed by a squid & onion dish that was surprisingly muted. Finally, a sea bream in textures that was, unsurprisingly, texturally interesting but didn’t blow either of us away flavour-wise.

For dessert, there was a citrus and vanilla cream ball that harkened back to the style of the Kir Breton that kicked off the meal. This was followed by a lemon sucadde that was intense and chewy. Lastly, a literal handful of treats were presented. The hand was made of chocolate but was not itself edible.

Wine Pairing

Crenn offers up two different versions of wine pairings. The standard pairing and a more expensive one that included rarer wines. I’ve always gone with the standard wine pairings but considering the high expectations, I figured I’d add to them by going with the more expensive pairing.

I wasn’t disappointed; the wine was fantastic. I had the best white wine I’ve ever had: a 2012 M. Chapoutier ‘Le Méal’ Ermitage Blanc. It was so good, I managed to track it down at a local liquor store for $250 a bottle.

The wine pairing alone was $500 and I’m struggling to say it was worth it. Yes, I enjoyed every wine that was served and some of it was probably the best wine I’ve had to date. But to say that I spent that much just on wine seemed overly indulgent.

Overall

Reviewing now the dishes that were prepared by Crenn and those by Aduriz, there was a definite contrast between the two. Crenn’s dishes were flavourful and delicious. Aduriz’s dishes were more umami and subtle.

All of our favourite dishes of the evening were from Crenn. I’d love to go back and experience the full menu she has to offer.

Photos

Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée

2019-09-16T00:00:00Z

Sometimes luck shines down.

It had been a couple months since I had been to a restaurant on the 50 list and with a few days available, I wanted to see if I could add some more. With five restaurants on the list being in Paris, it seemed like a great opportunity to make some headway.

I managed to book three restaurants for a three day trip. I added us to the waiting list for Alain Ducasse but didn’t hold out much hope.

Wouldn’t you know it? On the day Kitt and I arrive in Paris, I get a phone call: somebody cancelled their reservation. Huzzah! That’s four restaurants now in three days! Oh boy.

We arrive that evening at the Plaza Athénée and are seated towards the back of this magnificent room with gold trim, chandeliers, and dangling Swarovski crystals. It felt quite extravagant.

Swarovski crystals dangle from the room creating a sparkling effect throughout the evening.

The Meal

They didn’t offer a wine pairing but did suggest a 2016 M. Chapoutier Ermitage. Considering the 2012 is my current all-time favourite white wine, I was excited. When I mentioned my delight, the sommelier decided to up the ante and provided a 2014 instead. It was a most welcome suggestion. Kitt took a whiff of the bottle and said it smelled like a Port. The smell is definitely quite lovely, as the taste was, too. Considering the focus on vegetables and seafood for the evening, this wine ended up being a decent pairing.

We started off with a grassy juice and a grain biscuit before a series of appetizers. The flavour was interesting but not mind-blowing in any way. There was a pumpkin seed soup with a spoon that made it difficult to get it out of the bowl. I resorted to lifting the bowl to my lips.

There was an oyster with a brown sugar brûléed on top. It was a delightfully tasty dish.

Caviar was presented with a buckwheat crepe and Normandie creme. Since it was left to us to combine the three, I found it difficult to get the right balance between them. When I did, it was fantastic. When I didn’t, it was usually too heavy with the cream and it overwhelmed everything else.

The sea bass was quite tasty and probably the highlight dish of the evening. It was followed by a langoustine dish with smoked radish that was surprisingly intense. The langoustine was cooked to perfection.

The last of the main courses was a black rice with shell fish. The rice was a bit chewy and felt like work to finish off this meal.

Dessert

Transitioning into dessert was a cheese course featuring sheep’s milk, cow’s milk, a Stilton, and a Comté.

The sommelier offered up a white Port to go with the desserts. I hadn’t had a white Port before and, to be honest, I couldn’t differentiate it from a regular Port. Either way, it was delicious.

The main dessert was a peanut soy dish with a soy ice cream on the side. It had a wonderful nuttiness without being over the top.

We were completely stuffed by the end, do we took the peanut butter filled chocolates and grapes back to the hotel for later. It turns out that peanut butter, chocolate, and grapes are quite tasty together.

Overall

The meal was wonderful but rarely did anything come close to that Ratatouille moment. The service was pleasant, the food was delicious, and the venue was a sight to behold. If you find yourself in Paris and wanting a wonderful evening, I don’t think you’d be disappointed. On the other hand, of the four restaurants we went to, this was our least favourite.

Photos

Arpège

2019-09-17T00:00:00Z

It’s our second day in Paris and it’s an ambitious day with two restaurants lined up; the first of which is Arpège.

We arrive at noon and are seated in the corner of this bright, sunny, and cozy restaurant. We’re presented with the menus where we have the choice between the lunch menu at 175 euros, the courses of which shall remain a surprise, or a vegetarian tasting menu at 340 euros, or the standard tasting menu at 420 euros. We could also choose to go a la carte.

As the hostess returns to find out what we’d like to do, I say “We’re going to be ambitious!” She replies, “Oh, the lunch menu! Good choice.” Uh, lunch menu it is, I guess.

I mean, something that’s over half the price of the standard tasting menu isn’t really ambitious, is it? Turns out, we’re going to be very surprised.

The meal

Alain Passard’s menu at Arpège is heavily focused on vegetables. They’re fresh and tasty throughout the meal.

We start with a trio of amuse bouches purees on potato chip. Next up, a tomato bisque with ice cream. Oh my, this was fantastic. A poached egg with maple syrup and chives. The maple syrup was light and didn’t overwhelm the dish. So good. That was followed by melon and mozzarella that appeared to be soaked in a cream. The salt on the melon made the flavours of the dish pop.

A trio of tasty vegetarian amuse bouches

Next was a veggie ravioli in a tomato consommé. The consommé was so clear that I anticipated it to be lacking in flavour but it was quite the opposite. I would have gladly had seconds and thirds.

There was a sweet onion gratin topped with basil. Then a red pepper soup with basil whipped cream. That was followed by a tomato tarte and then a veggie minestrone with parmesan cheese. I was starting to get full but there was so much more to come.

The tenth course of this meal was a chicken liver with rhubarb. As a fan of foie gras, I was curious to try the chicken liver. The chicken liver wasn’t as good as foie gras but it wasn’t bad either.

We still weren’t done with the main courses! A stunningly beautiful beet tartare topped with cream and carrot that looked like an egg, served with a dollop of mustard that went perfectly with the beets.

One of the prettiest dishes I’ve ever seen

And finally, a swordfish with potatoes. I couldn’t finish it, I was so full. Kitt barely touched her fish and decided she couldn’t eat another bite. Not even a wafer thin mint.

I hunkered down for the desserts to come.

The first of three was a profiterole filled with ice cream and topped with caramel. Oh so good. Next was the most beautiful of apple tarts. And finally, a plate of bite-sized treats. The caramels ended up being a surprise, having a slight basil flavour to them.

The craftsmanship in these dishes were impressive and I was blessed with fantastic lighting for these photos!

Overall

We entered the restaurant at noon and rolled out after three o’clock in the afternoon. Dinner was a mere four hours away. For 175 euros, this meal was of amazing value and I’d highly recommend the experience. The service fell off towards the last half of the meal, leaving us time to eavesdrop on the neighbouring English-speaking tables.

The chef, Alain Passard, even took a moment to visit each of the tables to say hello. It’s an appreciated moment and a delight to be able to thank the chef in person.

We were told that lunch is the best time to go to Arpège since the vegetable-oriented meal means that the early seating ends up with the freshest ingredients. For that, we were not disappointed.

Photos

Alléno Paris au Pavillon Ledoyen

2019-09-17T00:00:00Z

After that large lunch at Arpège, I was trepidatious about Alléno. Are we even going to be able to finish the meal? Are we going to relax and enjoy the meal?

The Pavillon Ledoyen itself has quite the storied history, having been host to Napoleon, Degas, Monet, and others. The building is quite beautiful, although we arrived after sunset when the grounds were a little less exciting. Its close proximity, though, to the Avenue des Champs-Élysées is lovely. There’s something about seeing the Arc de Triomphe off in the distance while crossing the street. My rural scene here in Ottawa has a distinct lack of 200 year old landmarks.

The Meal

We started the meal with some Moët & Chandon from 2000 and a quartet of “salinités”. A floral amuse bouche; a cep tartlet; a tapioca with tomato pesto and black olive mousse; and a veggie tart of Jerusalem artichoke and beet.

Heading into the larger courses, we started off with a watermelon ham that made us question whether we heard the waiter correctly. Was it watermelon? Was it ham? It was delicious. And it turns out that it’s watermelon that has been smoked to the consistency of meat. This was served with a thin zucchini slices, zucchini flowers, and pistachios from Bronte, Iran, and Turkey. So tasty.

The Watermelon Ham

Next up was a plate of M. Morisseau’s mussels in a celery oil and sea salt butter. It was served alongside cucumber and a bowl of lobster topped with savoury mussel ice cream.

Following that was a tasty langoustine quenelle topped with lovage, coral, and buckwheat seeds alongside a langoustine perfumed with curry and Iranian lemon. I enjoyed this dish very much.

Just before the main course was a chicken-flavoured custard topped with foie gras. I enjoyed the foie gras, as I almost always do, but the custard threw me off a bit. It had an oily taste that, I think, needed something to balance it.

The main course was a mille-feuille layering of Wagyu beef and Paris mushrooms. Suffice it to say, it was definitely a highlight of the meal.

The mille-feuille steak layered with mushrooms with lettuce fondue flavoured with fermented beet

If you’re ambitious, you can also opt for a blue lobster dish. It’s the entire body of the lobster served with a side of fritters. It’s a lot of food; I’m glad I stuck with just the Wagyu.

To transition into dessert, we had a Fontainebleau cheese with voider jelly and fermented fir buds.

The dessert was a slow-cooked fig in a frozen yellow curry; a soufflé with caramelized creme flavoured with cocoa; a mushroom marshmallow seasoned with chocolate and sea salt, apricot, and a light meringue flavoured with hazelnut and mushroom ice cream.

I enjoy figs quite a bit and this dish was no exception.

Wine Pairing

I chose the full wine pairing with this evening’s meal and was delighted by the pairings. Nothing jumped out but nothing was horrible, either.

The dessert wines, however, were a treat. The first was an Alsace Grand Cru Gewurtztraminer from 2007. It had a lighter sweetness that went well with the desserts. The second was a Madiera Frasqueira Sercial from 1992, which had a stronger sweetness that works better on its own.

Overall

The food was delicious and the service was wonderful. It ended up being our favourite of the four restaurants we made it to in Paris on this trip.

Photos

Astrance

2019-09-18T00:00:00Z

With the three day trip to Paris coming to a close with our fourth restaurant, Astrance hit the spot feeling upscale and, yet, laid back.

The evening featured a tasting menu avec les vins surprise. That is, instead of presenting and describing the wine when it is served, it was described after it and the dish were finished. It was a fun twist and, for those with a finer palate than mine, likely an amusing experience in trying to guess the wine. My palate is nowhere that refined.

The Meal

The evening started off with a lovely amuse-bouche of a tomato and apple tart followed by a fascinating cheese and sun-dried tomato dish. The texture of the cheese was like a firm slice of gummy American cheese. Tasty, nonetheless.

The beautifully presented amuse-bouche.

After that was a mussel ceviche with a basil coconut lime sauce. It had hints of a ceviche but the lettuce wasn’t the right texture to elevate the dish. Still, tasty.

Next up was a turbot with sushi rice and soy-based sauce. This was a yummy dish. The fish was cooked exceptionally well and the rice had a lot of flavour that worked by itself or with the rest of the dish. Dare I say it? It was tasty.

The fish was followed by two meat courses: a succulent chicken medallion, and breast of pigeon on white beans served with a side of leg topped with a foie gras biscuit. I never say no to foie gras.

As we transition into the desserts, we start off with a mashed potato yoghurt ice cream. I was skeptical for reasons I don’t know why. It was quite delicious.

There was a walnut roasted in cognac with coffee ice cream. A cream tower of pears, plums, and figs. Egg foam. Madelines. And a plate of fruit.

The whole “cut off the top of the egg and then fill it with something”.

The whole “cut off the top of the egg and then fill it with something” is a common sight amongst high end restaurants. I appreciate it for what it is and at the same time, it is starting to feel rather common. I won’t knock a restaurant for having it on the menu, though.

Overall

It was a great meal to end on. It wasn’t overwhelmingly large like some meals we’ve had. The food was delicious. The service was jovial. I enjoyed the wine pairings and I liked the surprise reveal after every course. I’m surprised to see it fall off the Top 50 list and to have lost a Michelin star. The meal choreography was top notch and I think the overall experience exceeded other restaurants we’ve been to. I imagine Paris being a very competitive city when it comes to high-end French cuisine and Astrance stepped up.

Photos

Disfrutar

2019-11-26T00:00:00Z

In Spanish, Disfrutar means “to enjoy” and that’s just what we planned to do. Like the year before, Kitt and I invited her parents out to Barcelona to celebrate Thanksgiving, with the plan to take in a number of restaurants on this trip.

As we arrive, we’re brought past the bar, past the kitchen where we are introduced to the head chef and the rest of the staff, and into the main dining area that holds about 12 tables. It has a cozy and comfortable feel. (Although not quite comfortable enough. I found my seat too low, requiring me to awkwardly stretch my legs out and becoming increasingly uncomfortable towards the end of the meal.)

My blurry photo of the exterior of the restaurant. I really need to work on my photography skills.

Three chefs, who used to work at El Bulli, lead the team at Disfrutar. For those not familiar with the type of restaurant El Bulli was, it was a hotbed of molecular gastronomy. Those origins were definitely reflected in the meal at Disfrutar where dishes often subverted traditional expectations through deconstructions and reconstructions.

The Meal

The meal kicked off with a number of light snacks. A passion fruit foam in the shape of a lady finger. A lychee served on rose petals. And a freeze-dried beet foam. The molecular gastronomy is off to a delicious start.

A mango jelly in the shape of a mango slice. Smoked homemade apple cider. A cheese mille-feuille. A gazpacho sandwich that looked like an American cheese slice on white bread. Tasty.

Next, a small fish dish with olive and olive oil. Black celeriac that was slow cooked, allowing for the caramelization of the celery root. I enjoyed that dish. And then the egg with the top cut off. A popular staple of the high-end restaurant.

Deconstructed ceviche, which, while tasty, didn’t quite bring all the flavours of a ceviche together. The razor clams were cool and yummy. After that, seaweed ravioli.

It’s crazy to think that after all this, we’re only halfway through the menu.

Freeze-dried beet bombs

Macaroni alla carbonara where the noodles weren’t made of pasta. Instead, they were clear. I should’ve made note of what they were actually made of. It still tasted like pasta.

A tomato “polvorón” (a powdered milk candy) with arbquina Caviaroli, which is a sphere of oil with the same texture as caviar. I’ve really come to enjoy tomatoes and tomato flavours in various forms.

A “suquet” (fish stew) langoustine with a “suquet” cappuccino, which was the soup served in a small cup. Rich and delicious.

A trio of hare dishes: a consommé served in a whisky-style glass; hare laksa; and hare and foie gras bonbons.

The next dish was a very sweet bed of corn spheres on a bed of foie gras. The texture was soft and maybe a little unsettling.

Globules of corn on a bed of foie gras

The ultimate main course was the pibil squab with a corn puree.

Whew. Of course, we’re not done yet. There’s still the dessert courses.

Pandan to start, served in a freeze-dried ice cream over sorbet. Followed by cheesecakes cornets. And then chocolate peppers, which weren’t peppers, but looked like them. A hint of spice but only just.

The “Tarta al whisky” was an interesting and delightful experience. They poured Lagavulin 16 over our hands so that as we enjoyed the dessert, we would smell the campfire.

This was followed by a coffee swiss roll, which looked like a bone with marrow.

Last but not least was the cocoa and mint cotton (candy) that was served on branches with actual cotton. We were directed to which was the real cotton (not edible) and the cotton candy (very edible).

Thirty courses by the time all was said and done and yet, it didn’t feel like too much.

Cotton and cotton candy presented on a branch.

The Wine

Disfrutar didn’t offer up a wine pairing, which was a bit disappointing but it worked out okay. After all these restaurants, I’ve gained some confidence in ordering something that I like or can provide the staff with enough direction to get something that’ll hit the spot. Sure enough, I managed to pick out a couple Spanish red wines for the table that were a big hit.

Gran Reserva 904 2010 from La Rioja Alta for the main courses, as I’m a big fan of wines from Rioja and Dolç 2016 from Coca i Fito for the dessert courses.

Verdict

The venue felt cozy and the food didn’t disappoint. It was very creative and it was an enjoyable experience. Nearly every dish was a 9 out of 10. It would’ve been nice to have at least a couple 10 out of 10 dishes, though. If you find yourself in Barcelona, I highly recommend planning a meal here.

Photos

Tickets

2019-11-28T00:00:00Z

Last year, the Geranium adventure ended up with copious amounts of alcohol that made it difficult afterwards to ascend a set of stairs to the Airbnb. This year, we’ll attempt to avoid going overboard.

This year’s adventure continues with Tickets. We arrive at the venue, designed to look like a theatre, with the name in lights, and tickets provided at the door. We’re brought to our seat inside the hectic and loud restaurant.

Tickets is tapas-style and while you can pick your menu, they also have the option to give control over to the waiter who will pick everything. Which, in that way, essentially mimics a tasting menu, anyways.

Time for a show.

The Meal

The first couple things out were olives and orange slices. Of course, they weren’t just olives and oranges. The olives were a gelatinous ball filled with olive oil. The oranges were a jello-like form served on orange peels—very similar to Disfrutar.

Next up were sardines on crackers. Following that was a bite-sized cube of roe. There was a rare wagyu slices with uni. Rare tuna served between seaweed and topped with sesame seeds. Oysters. Jamón wrapped around a cracker, that looked like a steer’s horns. Avocado. Shredded crab. A thin slice of cured meat over a puffed cracker.

Breaded octopus that was a little chewy. A shrimp in rice soup but it was cucumber seeds, not rice. Bone marrow but was actually eggplant. And then the final main course: the king crab leg. Absolutely delicious and well worth it.

From there, we were moved to the dessert room for a handful of… well, desserts. The dessert room definitely felt more like something out of Charlie and the Chocolate Factory. The fact that they had clips of the movie projected onto the wall might’ve contributed to that.

There was the gelatinous ball of sweet rose water served in a rose. A key lime pie. Cheese and cookies. A “pizza” cookie with peaches and cheese crumble. An ice cream sandwich. A chocolate mousse cake. And finally, a popsicle. Oh, and a shot filled from an oversized flask.

An oversized flask for delivering a sweet beverage

All-in-all, plenty of tasty dishes with a lot of creativity that felt similar to what we had at Disfrutar.

The Wine

Again, no wine pairing but more understandable given the fluidity of the menu. I went with the waiter’s original suggestion but it ended up being more fruit-forward than I had wanted. After we went through half a bottle, I ordered another red that was more full-bodied and more in line with what I was in the mood for. It turned out to be a hit with the entire table. I should’ve trusted my instincts.

For dessert, I would’ve liked to have gone with a port but there were none on the menu. The dessert wine list was surprisingly limited. I ordered a moscato which, while lighter, ended up being a better fit with the desserts.

Overall

The staff was really friendly and the experience was delightful. Having been to Enigma, a sister restaurant under the ElBarri umbrella, the night before, there were some similarities. Go to Enigma if you’re up for the challenge. Go to Tickets if you want fun. If you find yourself in Barcelona, it’s worth a visit.

Photos

Don Julio

2019-12-13T00:00:00Z

Once again, I looked for a place where there were multiple restaurants on the list and Buenos Aires had two. First up is Don Julio, a rather traditional steakhouse. Kitt and I arrived a few minutes before the restaurant opened at 7:00 in the evening, a line up of a few dozen people already snaking its way down the side of the building with more arriving every few minutes. A waiter at the front door was handing out champagne to everybody in line. There was a very jovial atmosphere in the warm late spring air.

A long line awaits an evening of steak ahead. Thankfully, we got to skip the line.

The queue of people, it turns out, was for people who did not have reservations. I wouldn’t fly 9,000km without a reservation, so when the restaurant opened its doors, we were quickly whisked to our table inside the restaurant in advance of the large crowd looking to snag up whatever tables remained.

The Meal

From reviews, I knew I wanted to try the empanadas. They have an onion & cheese empanada and a beef empanada. I went with beef and I was pleased with my choice. It was like a perfectly cooked beef pot pie that I could hold in my hand. It was the best empanada I’ve ever had. The crust was thin and light but it didn’t collapse or fall apart like one might expect. Heck, I’d go back and just eat these all night.

Don Julio is a steakhouse, though, through and through. And steak was definitely the main course. The steak itself was cooked perfectly and was flavourful. It wasn’t overly fatty and didn’t have much gristle. It was a great steak. The tomatoes and chimichurri that accompanied the steak were delicious. However, there was nothing about the steak that elevated it over, say, a masterfully prepared Kobe steak.

Despite being stuffed, I still went for dessert: Panqueques con dulce de leche, the top of which was torched like a crème brûlée. I was tempted to lick the plate when I was done.

The Wine

Like many countries proud of their wines, the menu was full of local wines. In Ottawa, I’ll be lucky to find a Malbec or two on the menu but here in Buenos Aires, there were three pages of Malbecs broken down by region. I wish I could’ve had a flight of wines to really explore the regions. I opted for a wine priced mid-range (about $50 USD) from the region of Salta, which I had never tried before. It was good. Some definite fruitiness but with enough complexity behind it to make it interesting.

Verdict

If you happen to be in Buenos Aires, it’s definitely worth heading to Don Julio. The food is delicious, the staff is friendly, and the Malbec selection is extensive.

Photos

Tegui

2019-12-14T00:00:00Z

In contrast to the evening before, Tegui offered up a tasting menu like most of the 50 Best. In that way, tonight’s meal would be more like what we have come to expect.

Or maybe not.

The exterior of the venue belies the upscale restaurant contained within. Even the decrepid car seemed part of the facade.

The Meal

As the meal started, the sommelier comes over with a cocktail to start. No explanation given but delighted to start in on the pairings for the evening. And then she comes over to start the meal and I received the first actual pairing: a champagne to go with the appetizers. Okay, now I have two drinks. Not a big deal.

The first appetizer is ice plant with sea asparagus. A light, tasty dish. Then the second appetizer comes out. A paste of some kind with oil in the middle. No explanation given. We ate it. It was tasty.

Turns out, that wasn’t the second appetizer. The second appetizer comes out: a tuber native to Argentina. (I didn’t quite catch the name; it sounded like “oshuka”. Maybe the oca tuber?)

Then, we’re given the proper third appetizer. The new dish of paste returns but this time, with asparagus cooked inside of a pizza dough. The asparagus is excised from the baked dough. The bread is taken away, leaving us with the limp asparagus to eat with our fingers and the—what we now learn is—avocado butter.

Despite the awkwardness, all the appetizers were yummy.

Into the main courses, we start off with fennel bulbs on sliced figs on a slice of tomato in a tomato-infused water. This was delicious.

From there, the highlights were the strawberry with scallops, the royal palm that tasted like corn on the cob, and the sweetbread with sliced peaches.

A couple lowlight dishes included green peas on a seed biscuit/cracker and a cholque, pupusa, and tunta on a similar seed biscuit. Both were too large. Not that they were large but they were bigger than they needed to be. I became bored of the dishes about halfway through them. I think they would’ve been better as a bite-sized dish.

Everything else was decent but forgettable. Duck. Venison. Freshly-made Ricotta.

Speaking of the ricotta, as they served the dish, a tiny spider made its appearance on my plate. They quickly whisked the plate away and served the dish again on a new plate, almost forgetting to add the finishing oil.

There were a few other less than smooth moments during the service. It was all rather amusing. I can see why Tegui hasn’t made a return to the ranks of the 50 Best. Although, I can only say that after having been to as many restaurants as I have. Had this restaurant been one of the first high-end restaurants I visited, I’d likely have not thought twice about most of this.

Overview

The meal was fine. The wine was fine. With that said, if you do find yourself in Buenos Aires and looking for a great meal, check out Chila. The food and service were better and I think it deserves a spot in the 50 Best.

Photos

Noma

2020-02-28T00:00:00Z

Ranked the World’s Second Best restaurant, it’s hard not to come in with expectations high.

It’s near the end of February, and the weather in Copenhagen has been cool and rainy. But as Kitt and I walk over to Noma, there is a break in the dreary weather and the sun has come out. We’ve given ourselves some extra time to take photos along the way. The sun is low on the horizon as the evening approaches, creating long shadows and casting a lovely glow on everything.

Noma is nestled in amongst canals and behind a small ridge. A greenhouse sits out in front, which is where we are greeted and brought in for a lovely cup of warm tea before we move on to the restaurant.

While we had arrived on time, our dinner companions, Andy and Alison, mixed up time zones and are now rushing to make their way over. We continue to wait in the greenhouse, the glass walls covered in humidity, admiring the variety of vegetation and jars that line the structure along the sides and hang from the ceiling. We spend time imagining which of these plants would make their way into tonight’s meal.

The kitchen staff hard at work preparing the meal to come.

Once our dinner mates arrive, we are escorted out of the greenhouse and over to the main restaurant. The venue is warm with brown and black wood and metal lit with warm orange lights.

The dining area is set across from the main kitchen, giving us an opportunity to take in the activity throughout the evening. The kitchen is overflowing with chefs and, as we would discover later with a tour of the facilities, there’s a prep kitchen with at least another twenty more people preparing dishes. I’ve never seen a restaurant so heavily staffed. (For contrast, a visit to the Ledbury in London surprised us by how small the kitchen was and how few people seemed to be needed to pull off an amazing meal.)

The head chef, amusingly enough, happened to be from Ottawa and we bond ever so briefly before he goes on to describe our first dish: scallops. Fresh scallops. So fresh, they’re still attached to the shell—albeit with the gill and mantle and whatnot already removed, and served with a small slice of its roe. We pry the shell wide open to snap it into two and then take the top piece to shuck the scallop off the bottom and proceed to eat it. Kitt started to scoop but did so slowly enough that she noticed the scallop muscle contract. This definitely did not endear her to this particular course.

Noma splits up the year into three seasons: vegetable; game; and the season we are in: seafood. As such, there is the aforementioned scallop, sweet shrimp, red shrimp, lumpfish roe, cod roe, cod skin, sea urchin, sea snail, sea lettuce, squid, turbot, and the always delicious king crab.

It is interesting to compare experiences when there has been a group of us—such as there was here at Noma, and was at Geranium and Alinea and others—and when there has been just the two of us, Kitt and myself. As you might expect with a group, the focus is often shifted to the conversation and away from the food. The meal becomes an act of consumption and not one of presence with the experience going on in the mouth. As such, only those dishes that seemed to break me out of that external focus and bring it back to myself stood out. That’s not to downplay the rest of the meal as less than worthy. Nothing of the sort. However, the nuance that a particular dish might have or the observance of the dance of the meal, the wine pairings, the service… it all tends to fade into the busyness of the evening.

The squid and seaweed butter was so tasty. Totally worth it.

After the meal, we are given a tour of the main kitchen and down a hall past the prep kitchen. There are tanks full of king crabs and scallops. From there, we are brought into another room for a post-dinner nightcap. Cozy, low tables and dim overhead lighting create a low-key ambiance to end the evening.

I start off with an after-dinner espresso, which was lovely. Maybe a bit hoity-toity of me but I’ll often judge an establishment on how well they can do an espresso. Do they have the attention to detail for every aspect or will they consider it inconsequential to the experience of the entire meal? I will learn after the fact that they have a connection with an Oslo-based roaster and coffee house, Tim Wendelboe, that we’ll end up visiting a few days later. Suffice it to say, Noma does a quality espresso.

Noma also has a couple Danish rye whiskies on, which I also decide to try. (When I go in on an experience, I go all in.) One was from a single 200 litre cask coming in at 54.1% ABV. A bit hot but decent flavour—if maybe a bit on the pricey side. Worth giving a try, though.

Overall

Over a month afterwards, when I think back to that meal at Noma, some dishes definitely stand out. The squid and seaweed butter was fantastic. The butter was caramelized to perfection, bringing out a delicious deep sweetness. The king crab was probably some of the best king crab I’ve ever had. The dessert with wild, dried autumn berries had the most delectable candied pine cones. Apparently when picked young, they are small, soft, and easily edible.

Copenhagen is filled with amazing restaurants and Noma is no exception. It is a more relaxed experience than Geranium but not as personal of an experience as Relae. The food is, of course, amazing and I’d definitely fly around the world to try Noma again.

Photos

Frantzén

2020-03-04T00:00:00Z

Frantzén

The sun has long set. Not that we would have seen it as it has been raining non-stop since our arrival to Stockholm. The cold precipitation has mostly subsided for our short walk from the hotel to the front door of the restaurant nestled a few steps up from the quiet side street we find ourselves on, its warm orange door inviting us in.

Except the door is locked. Are we too early?

I ring the doorbell.

The door opens and a hostess invites us in, offers to take our jackets, and provides some initial pleasantries. We mention our quest to visit 50 restaurants. She then directs us down a darkly lit hallway, at the end of which is an elevator. We step in and as the doors close, music begins to play until the doors open again at the restaurant level above.

The chef on the far right describes the ingredients that will be featured in tonight’s meal.

There’s someone there to greet us and see us to our seat. They make mention of our quest. Wait, how does he know that? Was he listening in? Did she call up while we were in the elevator? Either way, I’m immediately impressed.

We enter into a somewhat small room with a kitchen prep area at the far end and low seating throughout the rest of the room. We are seated off to one side, giving us a clear view of the entire space. We start off the evening’s meal with a glass of champagne, a traditional start to a meal at these highfalutin restaurants, along with an assortment of small bites.

Will the whole meal be up here? That would be interesting. The door bell rings and I am suddenly clued in to the mood they are trying to set: we’re visiting someone’s house. It’s like we are in someone’s living room.

After we’ve had some time to enjoy our champagne, we are led down a level for a quick tour of their wine cellar, then their prep kitchen where we get a demonstration of their scallop preparation. They have a television mounted with a view of the kitchen in their sister restaurant in Singapore.

And finally, we are brought to the main dining area which features the main kitchen where the rest of tonight’s meal will be prepared for us. We are introduced to the head chef—a diminutive bespectacled Englishman with a calm smile—and then seated at a spot at the bar-style seating that runs along two sides of the kitchen. There were also a couple tables for larger groups. Overall, the restaurant seats maybe 25 people max.

Those scallops that were being prepped? They’re our first dish. Followed by a langoustine tail; a chawanmushi, a cream with abalone and topped with roe; a turbot with asparagus, walnuts, and topped with caviar; and king crab served with finger lime, pine & chrysanthemum.

After those dishes, the french toast topped with truffle—a dish that Frantzén has featured since 2008—provided a transition into the second half of the main meal including an almond dish in a foam; the lamb; and finally the waffles with salted carrot and pistachio. Lots of wonderful flavours and textures.

Two of the many fine pairings for this evening including a masakura sake.

They offered up both an alcohol pairing and a juice pairing. Kitt chose the juice pairing and I took the alcohol pairing. Both were very well done with the alcohol pairing showing some surprises like a sake, a beer custom-made for Frantzén, and a verdelho at the French toast turn of the meal.

Of course, we’re by no means finished for the evening. We retire back upstairs in the “living room” for some after dinner snacks and—quelle surprise—an espresso.

Overall

I was quite delighted by the meal and, really, the whole experience. I was charmed by so many of the small touches along the way that elevated the entire evening. They definitely earn their three Michelin stars and Kitt and I both agree that this is near the top of the list of the world’s fifty best restaurants we have visited so far.

Photos

SingleThread

2019-07-13T00:00:00Z

SingleThread

Similar to Benu, SingleThread made it on the list after I had already been to the restaurant. Since Benu qualified with my silly rules, SingleThread does, too. And with a global pandemic making world travel much more difficult, it feels good to be able to add a new restaurant to the list—even if it was on a technicality.

Alas, I am writing this up more than two years later and as such, my memory is a bit hazy…

Kitt and I made the trip up north of San Francisco after having been to Atelier Crenn the night before. I recall not having any idea of what to expect going in.

The venue felt spacious and warm with a heavy Japanese influence. The early evening sunlight beamed through the windows. The kitchen in plain view. (I still delight in the theatrics of a professional kitchen putting together a dinner performance.) I’d almost say it felt less pretentious than Atelier Crenn—not that I found Crenn’s restaurant all that pretentious. Maybe it would be more accurate to say that SingleThread had a more relaxed atmosphere, despite the upscale nature of the restaurant.

The open kitchen allows us to watch the meal prepped but our seats are far enough away that we don't get much of a show.

The first “course” was a garden of several dishes. Maybe a half-dozen small plates were placed on and around a bed of greenery representing "early summer in Sonoma".

Then the more standard series of dishes: kanpachi with seaweed; box crab with baby corn; thinly sliced wagyu; peach and cheese with furikake; squash blossoms with black cod; lamb with fava bean puree, green olive, and garlic scape; and Sonoma grains and caramelized mochi mugi, with braised lamb belly and radish.

The dish, Early Summer in Sonoma, basking in the sunlight streaming in.

A freeze-dried sheep's milk and ginger yogurt provided the palate cleanser shifting into dessert of frozen mugwort marshmallow with rice cream, Albion strawberry, and koji. Lastly, a handful of wagashi to end the meal.

We finished off the evening with an order of a glass of port from 1920. Yes, a 99 year old port. And it was divine. The best glass of port I’ve ever had. The rest of the meal may have become a faint memory but that port is seared into my brain for eternity.

As dinner had come to an end, we were escorted to the rooftop deck where we sat, relaxed, and watched the sun set.

The final course of wagashi presented on the rooftop patio.

Overall

While it’s been a couple years, I recall the meal being an absolute delight—especially, of course, the unforgettable port—and would love to go back at some point.

Photos

Atomix

2022-03-22T00:00:00Z

Atomix

After two years of a pandemic and having to put this restaurant adventure on hold, I took an opportunity with an Omicron lull to book a trip to New York City. It would also help me test the waters with travelling again. Of course, I never seem to do these adventures half-heartedly and promptly booked four restaurants for my five night stay in the city.

I made reservations with Michelin 3-star restaurants Masa and Per Se, both of which met expectations. Between those, I booked a return visit to Eleven Madison Park. Eleven decided to revamp their entire menu over the pandemic, going completely plant-based. I’ll have to find some time to write up that rather disappointing experience.

Thankfully, I was able to finish off the New York trip on a high note with a visit to a newcomer to the list, Atomix, that absolutely exceeded expectations. Despite a rather difficult couple pandemic years, Kitt flew out to join me for this one.

Atomix is “new Korean cuisine” by husband and wife team, Chef Junghyun and manager Ellia Park.

When we entered the restaurant, we were led downstairs to an intimate U-shaped bar area with seating for approximately 15 people, with plenty of covid-influenced spacing between each set of guests. The space was covered in lots of wood, which gave it a warm and modern feel. Inside the bar area, the staff moved to present the dishes to each guest. This was similar to Frantzén and a restaurant configuration that I enjoy.

One of the things the restaurant did that really improved the experience over other restaurants was to provide a card with each dish. The cards included a story and a breakdown of the ingredients of the dish. It made each dish more of an exploration, comparing it to the card, identifying each of the ingredients, and really appreciating everything that went into that dish.

The evening's meal presented with cards.

I’m not sure if this was something they started doing over the pandemic to limit verbal communication with guests but I want all restaurants to do this now. While I appreciate the excitement that the staff have in explaining everything that goes into a dish, it’s also a lot to take in and remember while enjoying the dish. I, inevitably, forget most of these details and when I go to write up the meal—weeks later—I have to make do with my foggy memory.

The meal this evening started off with a few small bites: a bigfin reef squid cracker, an eel & sugar snap pea tartelette, and a changnan jeot in a gim bugak shell.

After our appetizers, we were given our choice of chopsticks to choose from. I picked a lovely set of black wooden sticks and Kitt picked a yellow set to match her yellow drink and yellow phone. (Yes, she likes yellow.)

Yellow, yellow, yellow

The sea bream with chrysanthemum ice was a nice light start to the meal, which slowly built in intensity over the remaining dishes. Mung bean sprout japchae with black truffle; daepa, abalone, and chunri jang with a side of jicama and Korean pear namul; golden eye snapper, white asparagus, and king crab with a side of octopus and rhubarb kimchi. The horse mackerel topped with berry radish was served on the side of hearty nurungi rice in nokcha broth.

The last couple dishes—sea bass with cheongguk jang, and lamb saddle—had some spicy heat to it and I was absolutely delighted by it. You almost never find spice added to dishes in high end restaurants like this and understandably so—not everybody can take the heat. (Case in point, Kitt struggled to finish the Lamb kalguksu.) And when you’re preparing the same dish for everybody in the restaurant, you’ll want the dish to work for everybody.

Finally, we finish off the meal with a raisin tree berry tea and popcorn ice cream. Yum!

Every dish seemed well balanced and the wine pairings were absolutely fantastic. They were all European wines from 2019 or 2020 and expertly picked to enhance every single dish.

Overall

The whole experience stood out as exceptional and I’d highly recommend going here. I’d say the experience rivalled Frantzén and would definitely put Atomix near or possibly in the top five.

Photos

Maaemo

2022-08-10T00:00:00Z

Maaemo

It was late February of 2020 and a handful of us were in Oslo to head to Maaemo for their re-opening night in a new location. Alas, we got a call a couple days before that they had an equipment failure in the kitchen and would have to cancel our reservation.

Now, after two years of a pandemic, Jason messaged me to let me know that he and Val were heading back to Oslo and would like to make another attempt at going to Maaemo. An email to the restaurant secured us a reservation and I would use this opportunity to make this the first stop of a month-long tour through Europe to catch up on this adventure.

Thankfully, no kitchen failures this time around.

The Beginning

I made a quick walk over from my Airbnb in the building right next door and met up with Trinne, Jason’s friend, who was invited along for the evening. She and I chatted about coffee while waiting for Jason and Val to arrive. Her partner used to service La Marzocco machines and we bonded over talk of our current machines.

After entering through the grand entrance of the restaurant, we were escorted downstairs into a casual lounge to enjoy some small bites to start off the meal.

The shrimp on brioche was a fantastic beginning, quickly followed by a warm duck leg donut, and then what was probably my favourite of the starters, the pinnekjøtt and spring herbs. After that, dry aged beef with preserved truffle and egg yolk; “lompe”, a potato pancake topped with langoustine and clover; and lastly king crab shoulder served with a bit of caviar on top.

The Dining Room

After the intro of dishes, we were escorted upstairs to the main dining room. A central serving station was surrounded by round tables. Soft white feathery fabric lined one wall, creating a relaxed and quiet atmosphere that made it pleasant to carry a conversation in.

First up was an oyster dish, “tradition 2010”, that is their signature dish that had a lovely dill oil that didn't overpower the dish.

Next was the caviar dish. Caviar is one of those things that I don’t think I’ve learned to appreciate between good and great caviar. This dish, for example, was lovely, but would I have thought it just as lovely with different caviar? Likely.

The scallop was perfectly cooked but didn’t wow me. The grilled turbot was tasty and again, perfectly cooked. A solid dish. And next was the lamb that was, again, perfectly cooked. I liked the greenery that accompanied the dish, providing a brighter balance to what can be a heavy dish.

The dish of the night for me was the twelve layer bread. It was paired with an asparagus ragout but the bread was really the star here. I could’ve had another few loaves of this bread.

From here, we transitioned into dessert with Norwegian strawberries and ice cream that had just the right amount of sweetness.

I had done a juice pairing this evening they were decent but ultimately, I didn’t feel like they added much to the meal. I feel like I haven’t found a place that really integrates the juice pairing into the meal in such a way that elevates the entire thing.

We were escorted back down to the lounge where we finished off the evening, and had a rhubarb tart, a brown butter ice cream cornet, and a cinnamon bun that just had to be eaten, no matter how full I was.

The meal ended with some brewed coffee that the server was rightfully very proud of. He selected and roasted the beans himself and was probably the best brewed coffee I’ve ever had. The server had spent some time at Wendelboe, where Noma also sends their servers to train.

The Verdict

The dishes were consistently delicious with a couple exceptional dishes. The service was also fantastic. The venue was comfortable and relaxed. I’d definitely put Maaemo in the top half of the restaurants I’ve been to so far.

Photos

Elkano

2022-08-13T00:00:00Z

Elkano

After Oslo, the next stretch of restaurants were going to be tackled alone. I flew over to San Sebastián where I would take in three more restaurants. The first of which is Elkano. It’s in Getaria, a short 20-minute scenic cab ride along the coast of the Bay of Biscay.

I arrived early and used the opportunity to explore the small town which felt like something out of a movie with its tight pedestrian streets twisting between buildings; a Spanish woman hanging clothes on a line a couple floors up, chatting with a man having a cigarette on his balcony a couple windows over; and kids laughing. I even stumbled across the Balenciaga museum—as I would learn that Cristóbal Balenciaga was born in Getaria—and, since I had time to kill, I gave it a tour. It was surprisingly interesting. (And now I have the Lizzo song, About Damn Time, stuck in my head.)

As I walk the streets, I notice pintxos with outside grills—an apparently relatively common thing to restaurants in Getaria, including Elkano.

As my reservation time approaches, I make my way to the restaurant, where I’m sat at a table towards the back, on an elevated section with three other tables. My placement gives me a decent view of the rest of the restaurant. Elkano feels a bit classic (or would “dated” be more appropriate?) with its maritime-themed decor. Plenty of families dressed more casually.

I opt for the tasting menu aptly named A Taste of Biscay Bay. There are no wine pairings but considering the seafood-heavy meal, I opt for a bottle of white wine instead of a red that I might usually prefer. I ask the sommelier for a recommendation. “Can you suggest a white wine that is pretending to be a red?” He manages to do just that as I enjoy one of the better white wines I’ve ever had: a Clos Magador Nelin Priorat.

Probably one of the best white wines I've ever had

First out is a small bite of fatty tuna that is absolutely delightful. My initial thoughts were that this was going to be the beginning of a beautiful meal. Unfortunately, none of the other dishes held up to the high expectations set from this first dish.

Next up was barnacles. I enjoyed the experience of separating the barnacle from the shell and the tasty salty flavour it had. Slightly chewy but not overly so.

Next, was spiny and blue lobster served with its roe. It was cooked well and tasted great. After that was, what I believe to be the gill of the fish. (I didn’t catch the description and no menu was provided afterwards.) Again, decent.

From here on out, the rest of the dishes seemed to have minimal preparation and really relied on the meat itself to do the heavy lifting.

The squid legs were delicious but the head was a bit rubbery without really much else going for it. The shrimp were served in a buttery sauce and required separation from head, shell, and tail before eating, but still tasty. Next, was more fish that was again, served with a buttery sauce that was tasty but not exceptional.

It’s right about here where the meal went off the tracks for me. Lobster head (which I, unfortunately, didn’t get a picture of) was a challenge as it didn’t look particularly appetizing nor did it seem to do much for me flavour-wise, either.

Next was a red fish that hadn’t been deboned. As a result, I was picking bones out of my teeth left and right. I feel like there’s probably a proper way to eat this that I don’t know about. This was followed by a sizeable grouper fish which also hadn’t been deboned and, once again, I was picking bones out of my teeth.

I was thankful to switch to the sweet courses, starting off with figs and ice cream. The figs were pretty mild and… unexceptional? It was fine but it wasn’t impressive, either.

Lastly was a chocolate cake with coffee ice cream that was overly rich and not to my liking. There were two petit fours served at the end. A truffle that was, again, overly rich, and a cake that was quite good. At least I ended on that high note.

The Verdict

Considering my experience, I’m surprised this is on the list, much less how high it is on the list. If you’re a fan of seafood, you’ll possibly be absolutely delighted by the experience. For me, however, this has probably been my least favourite of the restaurants I’ve experienced on this adventure so far.

Photos

Mugaritz

2022-08-16T00:00:00Z

When I went to Atelier Crenn, the chef from Mugaritz participated in a collaboration where the evening’s meal was split between Crenn and Aduriz. While I felt like Crenn had outdone Aduriz that evening, I was curious to see what the meal would be like on home turf.

The restaurant itself is nestled in the countryside, about fifteen minutes outside of San Sebastián. As I arrived, the sun had just set, and I was quickly escorted to my table, again towards the back of the restaurant but this time only having view of three other tables. Each of the tables were a surprising distance from each other, giving us all a level of privacy.

I’m provided with a booklet of terms and definitions, which are quirky definitions for words like “plate” and “dessert”. Some of the terms are missing definitions, to be provided by the guests and from which may be included in future editions of the book.

The Meal

The first dish, Herbarium of wild and cultivated plants, that comes out is a folder that has dried, pressed plants and a sheet that looks like flattened corn husks with leaves inside them that tasted much like it looked: tough and relatively flavourless. Even the accompanying butter didn’t really elevate the dish.

The Aromatic brush was tasty. Like a thickened balsamic that was deeply sweet. I couldn’t remember if they said the brush was or wasn’t edible so I gave it a try. Nope, not edible.

The third dish was a Cherries with seasonal infusion that was milder and not as sweet as I was expecting. Also, rather difficult to consume out of the wine glass it was served in.

The Tangled tomato with butter nuances was deeper in flavour than I would’ve expected for tomatoes but provided contrast with the brighter greens of the Little glimpse of summer.

The most interesting dishware of the evening was Gazes. Caviar and nuts with a hard candy sheet was presented on a ceramic face. The face is to be lifted by hand and the food eaten off the face. This represented the return to intimacy after having to stay distanced over the pandemic. It was a delicious dish, in any case.

Such an interesting presentation and also a delicious dish.

White tuna was served as two dishes: sweet and savoury. I preferred the sweet but both were quite good.

Next up was my favourite dish of the evening: the Sake handkerchief. The handkerchief was made from the same ingredients as a sake and it was also served with a sake. The dish was paired with From Chicago to Ebro, a tamago-like sushi with shrimp and row. There was a sweetness at the core of it, though, that provided some delight.

Contrast of origins, roe on bread, and Product and tradition, a cereal in a broth.

Then I’m served a duo of plates: the creamy cuttlefish and the animal cake, coffee flakes over a sauce with a cake center. Neither had a lot of flavour and this felt like a palate cleanser going into dessert.

Which leads into For Everyone, which looked and tasted like a molasses cake but with a bit of savouriness added to it. After which was the Roast chicken and Apple and the Frozen Apple, that I, unfortunately, forgot to take pictures of.

As a twist to the usual cadence of a set menu, we shift back into more savouriness with the cow and the flowers and Bite tartar, tasty wagyu dishes, paired with a marrow and banana cream crème brûlée. The wagyu was cooked wonderfully and, despite getting full, I made sure to savour every bite of not only the wagyu, but the crème brûlée, as well.

Finishing off the meal was Between marshes, molluscs and sea fennel and Mountain and sea, savoury razor clam and oyster. Last but not least was Trick, the carrot molded in the shape of a finger served with a mild blue cheese sauce.

The Verdict

It kept me on my toes with the food combinations, experiments, and pacing as it broke away from the conventional structure of a set menu. The combinations of sweet and savoury in many of the courses provided contrast. Not every dish was mind-blowingly delicious but every dish had me curious. From an experience perspective, this meal was near the top for me.

All in all, I was definitely impressed with the meal and would enjoy making my way back here again someday to enjoy whatever new experience Aduriz and team came up with.

Postscript

At the end of the meal, after I had paid for the meal and waited for my taxi, the family at the neighbouring table—possibly taking pity on me for having eaten alone—invited me over. They offer me a glass of Rioja wine from 1964—which I’d later learn was one of the best years for Rioja—and we chatted ever so briefly about restaurant adventures. The daughter used to work at The Clove Club and it was nice to hear about it from her perspective.

My taxi arrived and I downed the last of my glass of wine like a cheap shot of tequila as I rushed off into the night, once again satisfied from an abundance of food.

Photos

Arzak

2022-08-18T00:00:00Z

A rainy day in San Sebastián but I vowed to make the walk over instead of taking a taxi. With a bit of luck, the rain held off and I made it just as the restaurant was opening up. There were about eight tables in the intimate space and I’m escorted to a table in the corner. I like having a view of the entire room, giving me time to watch everybody else, too.

A quatro of small dishes come out to start the meal: “Gazpachuelo de porrusalda” and red gumard, ear of blue corn, Chinese bread with "aji”, and sardine with absinthe. The gazpachuelo is delicious with the red gumard adding a nice flavour to the soup. The ear of blue corn is surprisingly sweet and absolutely fantastic. It was like candy and probably could’ve been served as a dessert. The sardine was a bit bland, which after the experience at Elkano, I was perfectly okay with.

The fish of the day was a fermented mackerel. The seeds provided a nice crunch to contrast with the fish. The prawn was huge but very tasty. Probably my favourite part was the fried prawn legs. The prawn itself was cooked “with slight heat stroke” and, as expected, was perfect. After the experience with the lobster head at Elkano, I was scared about the prawn head. Thankfully, they prepared a sauce that was delectable.

I notice a chef walking around, talking to each of the tables. She even sits down with a family and I wonder if she knows them. She stops by my table and I share a bit about my adventure. “Are you a chef or in the industry?” “No, I just like good food,” I smile back.

In my curiosity, I look up information on the restaurant and discover that I was talking to Elena Arzak. It was a delight seeing her so involved in making guests feel welcome. At many restaurants, the head chefs never interact with guests or do so with a wooden introduction mid-meal.

As some who know me, I’m not a fan of the taste of eggs. (I probably have mentioned it before on this adventure and will likely mention it again.) When the marbled egg came out, I had my doubts. The egg was poached, draped over with mushrooms and puffed rice. Mixed together, the egg gave warmth and depth. The rice gave some crunch. I liked this dish quite a bit.

Marbled Egg. Daily egg, Zizania and mushroom marbling.

The monkfish was served with three mini-bites topped with fish skins that were absolutely fantastic. Definitely the best part of the entire dish.

The lamb with orzo ended up being my favourite of the savoury dishes. These courses can often be overly rich but Arzak served this up with a lightly rich sauce and the most perfectly cooked lamb. Maybe the best lamb dish ever I’ve ever had.

With a quick shift into dessert, I’m served a yuzu and cherry cream with mint crisp. This was three of my favourite flavours all in one dish and it did not disappoint. A stellar dessert.

Next up was Vietnamese chocolate that wasn’t too rich. Again, not a huge fan of rich chocolate desserts and this was not that. The honey and carob with this dish was a great match.

This meal definitely ended on a high note with the last few dishes really excelling.

As I leave the restaurant, Elena makes a point to head over and wish me well. Such a lovely ending to a delicious meal.

The wine pairings were focused on Spanish wines, which I appreciated, since I like Spanish wines! Perfectly good pairings with no real surprises, good or bad.

Verdict

After Elkano, I was a bit worried but I needn’t have been as Mugaritz and a side trip to Akelare really helped reset the high bar I was expecting on this trip. I wouldn’t travel just for this restaurant like I might for Mugaritz but, if you’re in San Sebastian, Arzak is definitely worth a visit. The food, wine, and service were all expertly delivered.

Photos

Azurmendi

2022-08-20T00:00:00Z

After a week in San Sebastian, I took an hour and a half long bus ride to the city of Bilbao where I’d spend a few days and take in two restaurants towards my goal—the first of which is Azurmendi.

The restaurant is a taxi ride outside the city, nestled in a hill on the opposite side of a mountain range that hugs the city.

A Series of Stations

I’m one of the first to arrive to the large glass building filled inside and out with plant life. I step through the door and I’m ushered into the atrium that is two storeys high with standing tables and seating provided around the wall of green and the towering trees inside.

I’m offered a glass of champagne and a welcome picnic consisting of paquillo ice cream, smoked fish brioche, Iberian pork tartar, and a cup of red bean juice. All were superb and flavourful.

Leafy greens fill the atrium for the picnic.

I barely have a moment to rest before being escorted into the kitchen to be greeted by the staff. I’m presented in front of The Truffle’s Table where a chef is preparing a couple more dishes: Truffled egg and a Marianito cocktail topped with a truffled meringue.

I am then shuffled out of the kitchen and into The Greenhouse where I’m presented with a number of dishes at various stations. Asparagus presented like the bark of a tree. Apple cider that was herbaceous and delicious. Smoked salmon roe wrapped in perfectly dried and flavourful nori that provided the right amount of crunch. Lastly, a “Carranzana” black face cheese.

Dining Room

Next, I move on through another door and into the main dining room. I’m the first to be sat, placed in the first of a row of about a dozen tables facing the window, like theatre chairs and nature was the show. (Alas, as the sun set, the windows acted like mirrors and I spent more time looking at myself and the other guests than anything else.)

The seating all faces the outdoors but the countryside is obscured by the tall trees, making the view rather mundane.

I started with a cocktail prepared table-side, with vermouth, St-Germain, and a lemongrass syrup. This was a great pairing with the first set of dishes: Limón grass, a foie gras with honey and lemongrass; talo of flowers; rose and nectar, a frozen shell filled with sweet rosewater; and a leaf (a much more flavourful leaf than the one at Mugaritz).

Next up, sea urchin, under a foam and flowers; pelayo squid nigiri, that was fantastic; and oyster and olive, deep fried umami deliciousness but needed to be enjoyed in multiple bites instead of the ambitious one bite I took.

Shrimp and herbal essence, served with its roe; frozen garden, which was very fresh and refreshing; and a cod tart that was dense and sticky. The tart was served with a champagne pairing and it really needed it. Due to the stickiness of the cod, the champagne helped lighten and cleanse the palate between bites. Without it, this dish would’ve quickly become overwhelming.

Lobster served in a rich sauce with grapes and cherries providing a fresh and sweet balance. Grilled tuna and caviar that was a bit disappointing. The caviar was lost in the richness of the tuna and was a single umami note without anything to balance it out.

Iberian pork, covered in truffle, that I worried was going to be too rich, definitely wasn’t. That rounded out the savoury courses.

Fig ice cream provided a mild and not too sweet transition into dessert. Herb infused curds, honey, and a thousand flowers was prepared at the table with a Japanese hand-cranked contraption that shredded the cheese finely to make the dish melt in your mouth.

Lastly, cocoa and olive for the final dish. Not being a huge fan of chocolate, I wasn’t blown away by this dish but I did find the olive ice cream provided a nice balance to the richness of the chocolate.

By nightfall, the windows turned into mirrors and I found myself staring at the other guests down the line.

The wine pairings throughout the meal were quite good—especially the 2001 Chateau Lafite Rothschild—but I usually found myself disappointed in any of the sherries, aka Jerez. I swear I thought I heard him say one bottle had 120 year old sherry in it. But every time I try it, it always seems to have a secondary flavour that is like acetone. (Now, Port on the other hand…)

The Den

After dinner, I’m escorted into another room where I’m offered espresso and a tray of petit fours. I enjoy a little down time sipping on my so-so espresso and enjoying the delicious treats before hopping into the taxi back into Bilbao.

I was disappointed with the coffee throughout Spain. It certainly paled in comparison to the coffee in Oslo.

Verdict

Azurmendi does a great job of blending a great experience and delicious food. It reminded me of Enigma in Barcelona with the transition through multiple food stations while also maintaining a high level of delicious dishes throughout the meal. It was definitely near the top of the list for me and very much worth a visit.

Photos

Nerua

2022-08-21T00:00:00Z

It’s a beautifully sunny day in Bilbao, with the temperature warm but not too hot—a perk of being relatively close to the coast. I walk over to the Guggenheim, perched on the edge of the Nervión River. The Frank Gehry designed building is gorgeous in this light. I came early to enjoy the museum but was a bit underwhelmed. It’s a sizeable building but the amount of artwork inside it didn’t seem reflective of that size.

As a result, I strolled up early to my reservation at Nerua, conveniently attached to the outside of the museum.

Delightfully, I’m escorted past the kitchen that was visible from the entrance and into the dining room, a circular room with about ten tables around the perimeter and a prep station in the middle of the room. A single large window provides a view out onto the pedestrian promenade tucked between the museum and the river. Although from my particular seat, my view was mostly limited to the couple seated in front of the window and not anything beyond said window.

The meal starts off with a quatro of aperitives: Vegetable and basil gazpacho; Bilbainito, Cricket, and Tuna and anchovy bread with joy. The bilbainito is an egg dish that was definitely too eggy for me. The rest were, however, quite tasty.

Next up were the tomatoes with each one infused with a different herb juice. It is made into a game to guess what each of the infusions are. “Steal a tomato from someone else at your table!” Not easy to do when you come by yourself but I appreciate the joyful sentiment they’re trying to create near the beginning of the meal.

The tomatoes were very tasty but there weren’t any other attempts after this to create more of an experience of the meal. Instead, it just became a series of dishes coming out one by one.

The menu consisted of Eggplant, Mussels, Anchovies, Bonito Tuna, Hake and Veal Loin, and Carolina. I opted for a couple additional dishes—Sea Bash Ceviche and Aputuarte Peppers—to have a more complete experience.

Each of the dishes were, for lack of a better word, boring. There wasn’t any intensity or contrast presented in any of the dishes. The tuna was probably the highlight with the pickled shallot providing some much needed contrast. I ordered the peppers to try something more local. They tasted similar to red bell peppers. The spinach puree that accompanied the veal didn’t seem like a great match.

The strawberries and cream carolina was, however, a delicious dessert. Last but not least was a butter bun with ice cream. I wished the bun was more like a donut and had a bit of crunch to contrast with the ice cream. Instead it tasted like a bun.

After the copious amounts of alcohol I’ve had at all the restaurants to date, I decided to go for the “infusions” pairing. Similar to previous places I’ve had juice pairings, I felt like the juices—sorry, infusions—were fine but they didn’t really add to the courses. I think there’s an opportunity for restaurants to really elevate the meal with a good non-alcoholic pairing.

Verdict

I can’t imagine the experience was all that different in 2019 and as such, I’m surprised it ever made it on the list. It’s a lovely restaurant but it wasn’t an elevated meal food-wise or experience-wise. Thankfully, the price of the meal lined up with the overall experience and I was happy to be one restaurant closer to the end of this challenge.

Photos

DiverXO

2022-08-24T00:00:00Z

Sometimes things work out for the best.

I discovered that the website is adamant about being unable to adjust a reservation afterwards. I put out numerous requests for someone to join me for dinner in Madrid, but was unable to make anything work. Therefore, I was going alone.

Madrid has been swelteringly hot—especially in comparison to Oslo and northern Spain the week prior. The heat lingering well into the evening after the sun had set. The rather wonderful Airbnb apartment I was staying at was in the heart of the touristy and busiest part of town, overlooking (the aptly named, considering the weather) Puerta del Sol.

The restaurant was far enough away that walking there would leave me drenched in sweat. Not something I was keen to do. It was also a part of the city I hadn’t explored yet so I hopped on the metro, getting out somewhat near the restaurant and using the opportunity to explore the area. As it turned out, the area didn’t really have much that needed to be explored. I scoped out the restaurant and then found a nearby park to relax and kill some time until the restaurant opened.

Upon arrival, the entry is two storeys high and filled with kitsch and wonderment. Large flying pigs in tutus, a painting of a pig drinking wine, colourful pinwheels on the wall, and hundreds of butterflies affixed to the ceiling.

Butterflies and pinwheels along with other kitschy items fill the venue.

I’m escorted up the stairs, through sliding doors, into the dining room where each table is enclosed with sheer cloth that drapes from the ceiling. The drapery provided privacy while the sheerness avoided it from feeling claustrophobic. On the table was a beckoning cat—er, pig—that would be my companion for the start of this meal.

Before the meal starts, I’m supplied with an open-ended envelope with the profile of chef David Muñoz’s face. I’m informed that each course will be accompanied with a card that will describe each dish. I am absolutely delighted. A similar experience was had at Atomix and it absolutely enhanced the meal by allowing me to refer to the card instead of trying to remember the onslaught of descriptions from the waiter.

The first course is presented in two parts: a grilled embryonic egg yolk and a cold poached pigeon leg. The yolk was served with caviar, marine plankton, and a palo cortado wine macaroni that looked see-through. I’m learning that I like egg yolk just fine. It’s egg whites that I have a mild aversion to.

The leg, presented on a nest of hay, is very clearly the leg with the foot still clearly attached and I’m reminded of the time my ex-wife who, upon receiving her order of half chicken, stared at the dish and refused to eat it due to it looking like a chicken. I had no such hesitation with this pigeon leg and quite enjoyed the succulent bbq-sauce-like flavours.

There is no doubting that this is pigeon leg.

The next course is a trio of Thai-inspired dishes: a Thaiparinha, Green Curry, and Laksa Singapore. I enjoy a caipirinha, a Brazilian cocktail made with cachaça, and this Thai version with white Thai rum, ginger-lemongrass liquer, and lychees was delicious.

Green Curry featured tear peas softly sautéed in the wok for 8 seconds. Eight. Seconds. Homemade jalapeño peppers and matcha green tea curry. Finger lime. Emulsified butter whey with fine herbs. Very light, fresh, and tasty.

The roasted thighs with bbq bacon was also delicious. I assumed they were chicken drumsticks but turns out they were frog legs. The bacon provided a surprising bit of crunch.

The tuna course provided cured red tuna belly with a tomato consommé that was cooked for 24 hours. The crispy skin was fantastically contrasted with melt-in-your-mouth tuna. Along with this was a tuna marrow marmitako that reminded me of Kobe beef. Absolutely divine.

I’ve mentioned that I find sherry astringent but when paired with the fatty tuna, it was amazing. The sweetness of the sherry came through. And the brightness of the consommé provided yet another contrast to the tuna.

The amusingly named “frosted salad from the back of the fridge” was surprisingly good. Ice crystals provided delightful texture to the lettuce. This was served along side turbot, sea bream, and sea bass. Each one was cooked skin-side only, providing crispiness contrasting the soft and juicy meat. Every single one was perfection.

The next four dishes were presented (mostly) individually:

First was the baby eels and after hearing Andy talk about his struggles in eating raw baby eels, I was definitely tentative of what to expect. The waiter had a sieve of frozen baby eels and then poured the hot oil over the eels, lightly cooking them. They were then placed on a bed of clams and mushrooms. I needn’t’ve been tentative; the dish was scrumptious.

The lightly fried baby eels

Second was a bite-sized cube of duck foie gras topped with sea urchin on a jalapeño sauce with freeze-dried horseradish bites. I expected more intensity out of the horseradish and jalapeño but was instead met with a mild dish that wasn’t overly intense in any particular direction, leaving a delightfully tasty morsel.

Third was their version of a soup dumpling with iberian pork was rich but felt lacking in broth. This was the first dish that lost any marks but lost marks like an olympian getting a 9.5 instead of a perfect 10 on a routine. Still utterly delectable.

Next, was fried egg with black pudding. There was a crisp on top that had it not been there, this dish would felt unbalanced. The crunchiness balanced the tenderness and the brightness balanced the umami. Fantastic. Alongside the egg dish was a bite-sized “crispy bittersweet ear with lily bulb”. The flowers gave it a freshness that paired well with the sweetness of the sauce.

We then return to the more eclectic presentations. A three foot tall elephant looking straight out of a Beatles video was placed table-side with an Indian-inspired pani puri topped with lobster claw. Lobster head vindaloo presented in a shell on a cloud of cotton had me a bit worried due to my recent experience at Elkano but I really enjoyed it. This was my least favourite dish of the evening, which is saying just how consistently amazing all the dishes were this evening. Finally, Galician lobster was served with a mature tomato butter massala, sushi rice, tomato chutney, and buffalo butter. The sushi rice was an odd choice but thankfully didn’t detract from the dish.

Next was the lamb delivered on a bed of moss with an ornamental golden lamb skull. “Aragon forest moistures,” the dish is called. The two bite piece of lamb roasted in the embers of the sarmiento (translates to vine shoot). A broth of lamb with its stewed cheek. And buttermilk with pyrenean herb oil and black garlic gnocchis, topped with a minimal amount of truffle. So many restaurants pile on the truffle and I find it overwhelming. This was perfect.

The final savoury course was kagoshima wagyu. It was tender and full of umami, to be expected, but it didn’t blow me away like other wagyu preparations have. This was likely on purpose to be more of a transition into the desserts and didn’t overdo it.

I took a breather before heading into dessert. The restroom felt fantastical, filled with books and butterflies.

The first of the two desserts was a rice pudding cooked like a risotto, “creamed” with toasted butter, white pepper, nutmeg, and beetroot. About halfway through the course, I noticed bites that started to crackle in my mouth like Pop Rocks, which reminded me of the chocolate cigars at Astrid y Gaston.

The second was titled Blackcurrant Bubblegum that consisted of coconut ganache, black garlic, blackcurrant bubblegum and liquorice with coconut-yuzu ashes ice cream. The “blackcurrants” were filled with a bubblegum-flavoured liquid that tasted like a candy from my childhood. It felt like that moment from Ratatouille but where I was transported for a brief moment to being seven years old buying candies from the corner store.

What an incredible way to end a meal.

Verdict

This was the perfect meal. Everything that I look for was in this experience, from the food to the service. I’d go here once a week, if I could.

The dishes provided contrast in flavours and textures. They were presented creatively. They were bold. The alcohol was expertly paired to add to the experience. The showmanship in the venue, in the attire, and in the dishware demonstrated that everything was thought through.

The menu cards were helpful and are, in my mind, something that all restaurants of this calibre should do. They are useful during the meal, allowing me to identify and understand what I’m eating without having to remember the waiter’s lengthy spiel. They are useful after the meal, not only for reference but also as a keepsake from the restaurant. (I have been collecting menus from all the restaurants I’ve been to on this trip.)

Going alone ended up probably being for the best as it allowed me to be wholly present and focused on the meal. Considering how spectacular every dish was, I would’ve been a quiet companion from being too distracted by the food to talk.

I’ll be back in Spain in February and I think I might plan a couple days back in Madrid just to experience this again.

Photos

The Food

The Menu

The Wine

Belcanto

2022-08-27T00:00:00Z

Belcanto

After the best meal of my life, I was off to Lisbon where I’d meet up with Tayaba for the last week and last three restaurants of this ambitious four week and ten restaurant adventure.

I apprehensively booked an afternoon seating at the chef’s table, unsure of what to expect. Lunch is, after all, usually a smaller and less ambitious affair—although Arpege taught me that might not be the case. The web site made it seem that the chef’s table was a shared experience of up to six people and I couldn’t get a sense of what the table setup was going to be like. How intimate would the seating be? Would we be seated with people who don’t speak English and, therefore, have limited conversation with?

We arrived first and were brought to our seats in the corner of the L-shaped kitchen that had a U-shaped table with seating for six and a view of the two cooking areas. Another couple, on their honeymoon, from England, came shortly thereafter to join us and were placed on the opposite side of the table. Looks like it’ll be just the four of us and, as it turned out, it would be a lovely afternoon of conversation and food.

The meal starts off with an Elderini cocktail—Elderflower cocktail with lemon foam and paprika salt—and a brioche with cod liver. The brioche was a delicious start to the meal. I think I’m coming to the realization that the small bites at the beginning of a meal are some of the best parts of the meal. The brioche is followed by a tuna tartare, a foie gras full moon, and a minced squid between two pieces of roasted chicken skin.

Bread comes to the table with a poppy seed roll that is definitely one of the highlights of the meal.

We jump into the larger courses with the carrot and olive in different textures. Followed up with a European lobster “Caesar salad” that was very reminiscent of the “salad from the back of the fridge” at DiverXO but not to the same level.

The garden of the goose that laid the golden eggs included egg yolk and mushroom with gold leaf. Bougie and rich, in umami flavour. Next was a scarlet shrimp curry with apples and hibiscus that was quite delicious. And then a hake with coriander and cod’s sounders.

The roasted squab was fantastic. Accompanied with a mushroom truffle custard tart, the sauce wasn’t overwhelmingly rich.

The crispy suckling pig was one of my favourite dishes of the afternoon, with the crispiness of the skin providing a nice contrast to the lettuce. And the puffed potatoes providing a nice contrast to the peppercorn corn sauce.

For dessert, there was the “Bacon-from-heaven”, Apple with rhubarb pie, and a choux with yuzu curd.

Overall, the meal was decent. The food and wine was tasty but not mind-blowing spectacular and not horrible, either. If you find yourself in Lisbon, I definitely recommend giving it a go. I don’t feel that the chef’s table added much to the experience and grabbing a table in the dining room would likely give you a very similar experience.

Photos

Tim Raue

2022-08-30T00:00:00Z

I enjoy the Netflix show, Chef’s Table. Some of the restaurants on this grand adventure have been featured on the show, including Tim Raue. His episode, however, painted him in a light that seemed… a bit harsh? I suppose it depends on what lens one chooses to view things. Is he meticulous or overbearing? Ultimately, how would this be reflected in our experience?

When Tayaba and I arrived—and throughout the meal, really—the dining room was calm. We were able to choose different tasting menus, a flexibility offered by very few restaurants. And they were very accommodating to food restrictions. It was a surprisingly welcoming experience that made the meal a delight. Being able to have different tasting menus also meant maximizing the experience by being able to sample from each other’s plates.

The menu was Asian-inspired with Korean, Japanese, Thai, and Chinese influences. I hadn’t made too many notes from this meal but did remark that the green curry marshmallow at the beginning was amazing and that the champagne smelled like asparagus pee. Thankfully, it didn’t taste like it! In fact, the whole meal was quite good with wonderful flavour combinations.

The quail dish was succulent and the jus was just right. I feel like I harp on restaurants going way too rich with their sauces and I find myself quite delighted when they’re not. Considering it’s usually the last savoury course, ending on a high note right before going into dessert is always desired and Tim Raue was a delight.

The food scene in Berlin is fantastic and I think Tim Raue is definitely worth making the trip.

Photos

Noblehart & Schmutzig

2022-08-31T00:00:00Z

As we approach the restaurant from the outside, the exterior is unassuming. We step through the door and there’s a dark drape covering the entrance, providing privacy and warmth to those inside. Beyond that is a wall that separates the foyer from the rest of the restaurant. We are escorted around the wall to the main seating area which is a U-shaped bar with the kitchen preparation area in the middle. There are a few tables that sit against the outside walls but the majority of the guests are sat at the bar.

No photos are allowed inside the restaurant, forcing everybody to be present—and resulting in a spartan post with a lack of documentation showing off this particular meal.

The menu included Tomato, Brotzeit with rye sourdough bread, Cucumber / Dill, Celeriac / Egg yolk, Tomato / Onions, Guinea fowl / Sage, Potato / Horseradish, Raspberry / Sour cherry kernel oil, “Beurre gris” Pear / Buck wheat, and Babka.

Overall, it was a decent meal but towards the bottom of the list for me. Alcohol pairings were fine but not exceptional. Food, focused on local, was tasty but nothing stood out. All-in-all, a perfectly respectable meal.

I wouldn’t go out of my way for this restaurant but if I found myself in Berlin again, I might revisit it for a casual evening.

Jordnær

2022-11-23T00:00:00Z

After a monumental trip over the summer, going to ten restaurants in one month, I had to take some time off for surgery. Looking at the list, I wanted to take a quick trip somewhere and having heard good things about Alchemist, I decided to make a reservation. With reservation in hand, I contacted Andy to see if he’d join. Not only was he up for joining, he managed a reservation at Jordnær to boot.

Both Jordnær and Alchemist were new to the list in 2022 and I was delighted at the opportunity. Jordnær is a short train ride and walk on the edge of Copenhagen. The cool, misty November air provided a calm, quiet walk to the hotel where the restaurant is located.

Jordnær’s ambience is classy and warm with greys and whites and beiges. There’s definitely a Japanese influence that is reflected throughout the meal. Interestingly, Chef Eric Vildgaard shared with us that he had not yet been to Japan.

The meal starts with a trio of tartlets: the first, a lobster and sansho pepper with trout roe served on a glass plate that made the tartlet appear like it was floating. The second was with Balfegó tuna and caviar. The caviar in this dish held its own in a way that I find it rarely does. The third was a rosette waffle with Baerri caviar and fjord shrimp tucked into the underside of the waffle, allowing the flavour of the shrimp to hit the tongue before the waffle.

This led way to the rest of the pescatarian meal. Each of the dishes were well crafted and delicious. One of the waiters, in presenting a dish, made mention of a chicken broth, which didn’t faze me in the slightest but Andy rightfully questioned immediately. The chef came out to assure us that the waiter misspoke and that it was not a chicken broth. The waiter was new and mistook “broth” as being chicken broth, specifically. No harm no fowl and it was a pleasure to have a short conversation one-on-one with the chef.

The yuzu, Miyagawa and Sichuan pepper ice cream was a refreshing start to the dessert. The vanilla, milk, and honey was delicious but texturally, was chewy. The white truffle on hazelnut and ice cream was tasty but I found the white truffle flavour threw off the dish. I feel like restaurants feel the need to provide lots of truffle but less is more, in my opinion.

Both Andy and I partook of the non-alcoholic pairing. The tea pairings felt like they came the closest to comparing to a traditional wine pairing. Whereas the juice cocktails were tasty on their own but too flavourful, drowning out the dish.

Verdict

Jordnær falls into the upper middle of the pack with its fantastic service and consistently well prepared meal. I would definitely return the next time I am in Copenhagen. I felt warmed by the food, the service, and the company.

Photos

Alchemist

2022-11-24T00:00:00Z

There are meals and then there are experiences.

The Entree

In the true French meaning of the word, Alchemist knows how to make an entrance. Upon arriving, the massive 20ft tall doors look as if cast by giants, adorned by metal nature.

As we walk in, they take our coats and walk us into the first of dozens of impressions—an impression of food, drink, or interactive art. The room is approximately 20ft by 30ft and adorned in mirrors from floor to ceiling. There’s a woman in a black leotard miming in front of a set of mirrors in the middle of the room. She then brings each of us to the mirror to experience our reflection.

After a few moments of this, we are escorted into the lounge to enjoy some amuse bouches and cocktails. The Smokey Ball was a fried ball filled with smoke and topped with caviar. The Butterfly was an actual butterfly sitting atop cheese and a candy leaf. The butterfly didn’t add much flavour-wise but was interesting to experience. The Dumpling was made of cotton candy and filled with mint. The Omelette was cooked so well, you could pick it up with your fingers.

Butterfly atop a cheese and candy leaf.

I tried the rabbit ear fermented cocktail. They really try to use the entire animal and found a purpose for the ears. The cocktail itself was okay but lacked complexity.

The Main Course

From there, we are moved into the dome, which is the main dining area sitting in what feels like a planetarium, with various scenes being projected onto the ceiling. The scenes at times line up with the courses that are being enjoyed. (It is likely that they all lined up but I wasn’t nearly that observant.)

The dining setup has a bar-style seating that zig zags around the outside and the servers prep and serve from the middle. Our server happened to be from Toronto. My mentioning I was from Ottawa elicited a nonplussed response, perhaps unsurprisingly given the mild disdain the two cities have for each other. Thankfully, that didn’t affect the service.

Much of the meal was a societal reflection on various issues, like sustainability and the environment. The dish, 1984, was an eyeball where the pupil was caviar. The Plastic Fantastic was an edible “plastic” representing sea pollution. The Lifeline was made of blood and highlighting the need for blood donation.

On top of that were some very interesting food presentations. Food for Thought was brain served inside a (rubber) skull. Tongue Kiss was a cream served on the tip of a (rubber) tongue. Breathless was a pate served between lung-shaped crackers. Hunger was a thinly sliced meat (rabbit, if I recall correctly) draped over a metal ribcage. The meal was definitely for all of the senses.

The rabbit thinly laid over the metal ribcage.

The alcohol pairings were decent but the highlight was a bit of a personal splurge: a pour of 125 year old port. It came in a test tube in a wooden box that I have kept as a memento. It was incredibly delicious with flavours of rich figs and raisins and thick sweetness that was just divine.

Dessert

After the main part of the meal, we were told to empty our pockets of anything as they may very get lost in the next impression. Confusingly, we empty our pockets and are led into a small room maybe 15 feet by 15 feet filled about two feet high with white balls. That’s right, we were led into a ball pit. The woman from the mirror room was back, this time in white, throwing balls in the air, pulling people up and pushing them back into the balls.

The movement and amusement was a fun transition into the final part of the evening. From the ball bit, we received a quick tour of the kitchen. We noticed that they use Trello to track the different tables, courses, and food restrictions on a large screen embedded into the counter. From there, we’re taken up a level and can now see the upper side of the dome.

We’re served up a few more small bites, including an ant embedded in “amber” candy.

Verdict

Alchemist was by far the best restaurant experience I have had. I still think DiverXO holds the title of best meal but Alchemist is an experience. It engaged the senses throughout, all the while serving up incredible food. I highly recommend flying around the world to take in this experience.

Photos

Boragó

2023-01-07T00:00:00Z

It’s interesting to see where world famous restaurants choose to situate their locations. Geranium, for example, is in Parken Stadium—the home of FC Copenhagen and the Danish national football league. Not exactly where I would expect to find a high end restaurant.

Boragó is similarly located in an unusual location. It’s nestled amongst a wellness centre with the restaurant surrounded by fitness areas and tennis courts. It felt a bit strange to be dressed up for an elevated food experience and have casual tennis players walking by the window.

The meal was a great way to explore the regional ingredients in a creative way. It is always a delight to experience flavours that are unique to a region and Boragó’s spring menu, Endémica, did just that.

Chile from north to south with red murtillas (berries) and Changle mushrooms, deep fried, to start. Sea Sunstar of Jibia. Pulmay, a seafood stew, was smoked in tepú. Cremoso of sea asparagus. Piure ceviche and spring extracts. A kollof broth served with wilted chard rock plants and sea extract.

Milcao cooked “al rescoldo” served with pajarito butter transitioned us into the savoury courses of deer aged on bee’s wax and cured on peumo tree. A hot ceviche of mushrooms, served on tepú roasted apple custard treated as cheese for over a month. The texture of the “cheese” was interesting and reminded me of a bread bowl. Lastly, Patagonian lamb served with a “fig tree” that was a branch made of fig.

The Atacama-based desserts were creatively presented as flowers and a butterfly including a custard apple; semifreddo of rose of the Year of Atacama desert; Rica-Rica and algaes; loyo mushroom, seaweed, and Maqui wild fruit; and lastly, a “cold glacier” which was a freeze-dried meringue that was eaten in one bite.

Verdict

As I approach the end of this adventure, I have started dividing the list into thirds. At the top of the list is definitely the cream of the crop, the best of the best with absolutely incredible food and experiences. In the middle are fantastic restaurants with great tasting menus, with fantastic service, that follow a standard tasting menu format. At the bottom are restaurants that are really good but maybe didn’t live up to expectations for one reason or another.

Within the list, I’d place Boragó solidly in the middle third. All-in-all, a lovely meal that, if you find yourself in Santiago, I’d definitely recommend.

Photos

Central

2023-01-09T00:00:00Z

I have had high hopes for Central with its high rankings and maybe moreso after having missed the opportunity to eat there a few years prior during a previous trip to Lima.

Kitt had secured a reservation and invited me down and despite some personal drama between us, I accepted. It was interesting to be back in Lima and revisit some spots and also explore some new areas of the city.

We arrived at the restaurant and were sat at a table off to one side of the large dining room. I gawked through the kitchen window, watching the staff hard at work. I noticed the chef visit a table close to ours that seemed to be close friends of the chef as he’d return a few times throughout the dinner.

It was nice having a view over the entire restaurant and even the kitchen.

The meal starts out with a handful of dishes and I’m intrigued by the colours with unusual shades of orange, blue, and green. Scallop crudo. Something deep fried. Something sweet with a fruit crackle on top.

Crab and clam sticks started off the main courses, which looked like frozen fish sticks but tasted better than anything you’d get out of a box. Next was sweet potato and scallops, with yellow and red potatoes. Peru has the largest number of potato varietals in the world and I enjoy seeing that reflected in the dishes.

The corn dish was two breads, one softer and one harder. Butter topped with fermented kculli (Peruvian purple corn). I think I missed a few photos in here. Likely too enamoured with how delicious everything was.

The Heights featured ingredients from 4200 metres above sea level. Oca, kiwicha, and mashua. Was like hot apple pie.

Deep fried grouper with blue clams on top. Arapaima fish with cassava and topped with mishkina powder.

The squid was served in a vibrant yellow broth and topped with a blue foam. The octopus was served with sea lettuce that looked like pesto spaghetti that had been dried. Then was a potato dish with chushuro, egg yolk, and beef. The dish looked like limp spaghetti.

Then a slightly sweeter dish with the Pacu fish served with a thin slice of watermelon. And finally, pork belly with thin slices of olluco (a tuber) and callampa (a mushroom), which was probably one of my favourite dishes of the evening.

The desserts were an algarrobo fruit crumble and a macambo nut with mead candy. I enjoyed the flavours of these, which is good, because we finished off with a series of chocolate dishes. Sacrileges to some, I’m sure, but I’m not a big fan of chocolate. They were all definitely tasty but I wasn’t left blown away by how amazing it all was.

Towards the end of the meal, I asked of the waiter to meet the chef and give my regards. A while later, I notice the chef come out to another table and chat. It was the only other table he visited that night, from what I saw. I feel like my request was mistakenly directed to another table, which soured the evening a little bit.

Verdict

All in all, it was a decent meal that creatively used the ingredients of Peru. From the photos, you can tell that they are being quite inventive with the dishes. But I think I had my expectations set too high and the restaurant failed to meet them. It was a great meal of great food but there are plenty of other restaurants that I’d enjoy just as much or even more, like the sister restaurant, Kjolle.

Photos

Mayta

2023-01-10T00:00:00Z

Mayta was new to the list and was delighted to have a chance to check it out. Kitt had made the reservation for the day after Central, so there was a lot to compare it to. (Although not sure we had a chance to fully digest the meal from the night before but this isn’t the first time we’ve had ambitious gastronomy goals.)

The restaurant has a very calm but elegant vibe that set me at ease right from the beginning. Lots of indoor plants and terracotta, with soft lighting throughout. We were first to arrive and sat over to one side of the wide but shallow dining room.

The view from our table, with all the warm colours

Tubers, unsurprisingly at this point in our Peruvian experience, kick off the meal with sweet and salty layers. Next was the scallops in a creamy citrus fava bean sauce with a cracker topped with puree and fava beans.

The carrots were picked from a farm four hours south, roasted and placed on a carrot purée, and topped with yogurt and carrot powder. The riesling that was paired with this dish was really good.

Baby eggplant in a consumé with fennel oil and served with a cracker and eggplant skin purée topped with ash that gave the dish a nice smoky flavour. The cracker was delicious.

Corn and quinoa dish was served with thin slices of grilled cob that had been coated with ash powder and served on a purée. I found the dish a bit bland but the wine pairing definitely came alive with this dish.

Crab and razor clam wrapped in a codium shell and topped with barnacle slices. I remember having barnacles at Elkano and they were pretty good but I much prefer how this dish turned out.

Next was paiche fish served in three parts of head, body, and tail: sliced on a hard shell and topped with bellaco shavings; grilled; and in a bready ball with an it-might-be-spicy charapita pepper that caught Kitt by surprised.

This would also be my first time eating alpaca with this next dish that featured olluco, chillies, and cushuro. This dish was really good.

Tunta is a freeze-dried potato product that looked like white stones. We had to be careful that we were picking the edible ones out of the bowl it was served with. They had a mochi-like filling that was like cinnamon roll dough before it’s cooked.

The Tunta provided a bit of a flavour bridge between the savoury alpaca and the sweet tumbo fruit candies and caigua, an herbaceous fruit filled with passion fruit, cacao, and Peruvian anise.

Next was a corn husk filled with corn and creamy andean cheese and lastly the theobramas, which is a type of cacao tree, served as a drink with a couple of candied sides.

Verdict

Overall, I really liked the dishes here. They were interestingly presented and flavourful without trying to be too edgy. The wine pairings throughout the meal were also quite good with Kitt’s notes having me positively remarking on many of them.

I’d definitely come back here and put it up there with the likes of the other fantastic Lima restaurants, Maido and Kjolle. The food and service were fantastic.

Photos

El Celler de Can Roca

2023-02-15T00:00:00Z

El Celler de Can Roca, positioned on the edge of Girona, Spain, can be a tough place to get a table. First, they book out 11 months in advance. Second, the first time I made a reservation, it was March 31, 2020. Surely nearly a year out is enough time for this pandemic to be over. Sadly, that was not the case. I booked it again in March of 2022 during Omicron’s surge but had hopes.

Thankfully, things worked out. We had a crowd out for this one with Marty, J and Stacey, and Marnie joining along for adventure.

We were sat at a round table in a corner of the restaurant which provided us a reasonable level of privacy that left me feeling like we weren’t disturbing everybody else in the restaurant with our conversations.

The Meal

The small bites at the beginning started coming out. Truffle brioche, escudella (a soup), truffle sandwich, and truffle cream. And then cannellone, cod brandade, roasted chicken muffin, and boletus (mushroom) tartalette. And then a vegetable surf and turf, with seaweed, herbs and flowers.

And then olivada, spring pickles, charcoal grilled chestnut “carpet” with mushrooms and smoked eel, and sea urchin with marrow.

We haven’t even started the official menu yet and I already feel like we’ve eaten so much food. To finish off the abundance of starters we had oysters with palo cortado, game sauce and truffle, along with foie nougat, hazelnuts and cocoa.

Finally we have our first official course: the steamed peas with wasabi and pea sprouts. Next, cauliflower with lychee; then broccoli stalk and citrus pickle; and celeriac and pear. The cauliflower was paired nicely with a muscat, a sweeter wine than I expected. The celeriac was really good, and again, on the sweet side. I noticed that a number of dishes were sweeter than I would have expected but I was definitely delighted.

Next up, artichoke rosette; Calçots with razor clams; langoustine with sagebrush, vanilla oil, and toasted butter (mmmm); monkfish royal with skin stew, cured-smoked monkfish, and charcoal-grilled liver with grapefruit; and fish of the day “suquet”. (I forget what the fish of the day is now.)

There’s more! Cabbage soufflé, partridge and taragon; “Ramats de foc”, lamb with smoked sheep’s cottage cheese; and poularde brioche with truffle and fresh herbs sauce to finish the savoury courses.

Dessert

For dessert, “It rains in the pine forest” with pine honey, pine nuts, thyme and oregano; Old book, a cinnamon and cream reduction, toasted powdered milk, earl gray tea cream, madeleine mousse, madeleine cubes, lemon jelly, lemon jam, caramelized crunch and rice paper (oh my); and lastly, “Mexico”, creamy white cocoa chocolate from Soconusco, with corn and tortilla chip honey. Again, not being a huge chocolate fan, I didn’t appreciate this finale as much as the others.

Even though all of us were thoroughly stuffed at this point, they brought out the collection of petit fours. Marty was a trooper and kept going, whereas the rest of us needed to stop.

All the dishes were solidly delicious. It was a lot of food. A monumental amount of food. The wine menu was just as bountiful as the meal with 17 different wines paired with the dishes.

Each of the three Roca brothers—Joan, Josep, and Jordi—came over to say hello at various points in the meal. Stacey was kind and asked to get the menu signed by Chef Joan.

At the end of the meal, we got our photo taken with Chef Joan Roca

We ended the meal outside having cuban cigars. We pretty much shut the place down, we were there so long. The staff was very kind and accommodating.

All in all, El Celler de Can Roca was a great experience that is definitely closer to the top of the list for me.

Photos

Narisawa

2023-02-28T00:00:00Z

I had originally planned a trip in April 2020 to be in Tokyo and, well, we all know what happened. I had three of the restaurants on the list booked and had to cancel. This year, I decided to take my son and my mom to Tokyo and while I’d normally be ambitious with my restaurant adventures, with family in tow, I decided to go for one experience that I thought would be the most approachable and that was Narisawa.

The kitchen crew looking relaxed in their Narisawa-branded hoodies.

The meal started off with tuna and a light sake. I enjoyed the lightness of the dish and its interesting floral flavours. Next was sea bass that was juicy and savoury with rice that was fantastic. The wasabi was light and not overpowering, as I believe is to be expected with real wasabi.

The tweed dish was a bit bland. The sake was good and the broth was even better. The blowfish was really tasty—like a good chicken finger—and the greens with this dish were very fragrant. The wine pairing got lost in this dish. The eel was delicious and had a nice crispy skin.

The rich harvest dish had a lovely smoke along with a nice combination of textures with the crisped rice and mackerel. The Kobe steak on the other hand was rather disappointing. The sauce was too rich and the beef itself was mediocre. As my son said to me, “it doesn’t taste better than anything you’ve made at home.”

Into the desserts, we all enjoyed the chestnut and the gelato dishes. The soufflé was eggy, which I didn’t mind, and the hot strawberry was really good.

I felt like the level of service dropped off towards the end of the meal but the chef came out at the very end and it was lovely to give our thanks.

I think I made a good choice as the food was very approachable, the staff were very friendly and attentive, and I liked the casual vibe with kitchen staff wearing hoodies. Overall, it was a lovely experience that I would place in the upper middle of the pack of restaurants.

Photos

Ikoyi

2023-05-04T00:00:00Z

As I approached the end of the list, I was feeling hesitant. What is it going to mean to complete this adventure? Well, it will have definitely meant that I enjoyed a lot of good food in a lot of amazing places, at the very least.

But let’s not get ahead of ourselves here. I still had two restaurants to go. And with determination to reach the end, I made the last two bookings, the penultimate of which was Ikoyi.

I had seen a feature on the restaurant on YouTube where it talks of its Nigerian cuisine influences. With it being a new addition to the list in 2022, and with London being a city relatively easy to get to from Ottawa, it felt like a good choice on relatively short notice.

The meal starts off with the Gola Pepper Broth that was fragrant and very tasty. Next, Smoked Sirloin & Aged Mackerel with sweet potato. Lovely smoked flavours with a hint of citrus and a shell that had a wonderful crunch without being too thick.

Cuttlefish, White Asparagus & Vadouvan tasted like Campbell’s vegetable beef soup, giving me vibes of my childhood. A smokiness and a hint of spice in this dish levelled it up. Drunken Chicken Toast made with a French wine and topped with spring onions. I enjoyed the contrast of the warm toast to the cold onions.

Mussel & Saffron Crème Caramel with caviar came paired with a rosé champagne that wasn’t as sweet as expected given the sweetness of the dish and yet still paired well.

Mussel & Saffron Crème Caramel

The Octopus & Peas with broccoli sprouts had a nice balance of sweetness and spice.

Poached Middle White, Agrodolce & Spring Greens was paired with a sherry. I often find sherries rather astringent but when paired with something fatty, it really helps sweeten the wine and this dish did much the same.

I didn’t take any notes about the Moin Moin, Duck Egg, Scallop & Hay dish.

The Asparagus Efo, Savoury Pistachio & Seaweed and Scarlet Shrimp & Yeasted Bernaise were served together. These were paired with a sake that I found improved with the course, bringing out more umami notes. The shrimp tartlet had a bit of kick that left a spicy heat in the back of the throat. The herb sauce in the tartlet brought out a bright note in the sake. I definitely enjoyed the sake pairing.

Next up was the Turbot, Crab Bisque & Egusi Miso and the Barley bread glazed in butter. The bread was interesting because it was served in a cylindrical shape and reminds me of my grandma making Christmas pudding in an old food tin. The density and springiness of the bread was similar to that Christmas pudding, too, now that I think of it.

The last three savoury dishes are served together: Native Breed Rib, Rye Porridge & Green Goddess, Smoked Jolly Rice & Lobster Custard, and Timur Pepper & Rosé. Lots of strong flavours going on but the wine got lost in all of that.

There’s a strawberry sorbet to transition us into the desserts.

Overripe Plantain, Schrenckii Caviar & Raisin Caramel that was sweet and salty.

Finally, a trio of petit fours: Roasted Cep, Salted Caramel & Pine, Rhubarb & Passion Berry, and Suya Ganache & Preserved Citrus with this last one probably being the most interesting of the three.

Verdict

Overall, I enjoyed the meal. Similar to Atomix, I liked that some of the dishes had a bit of spice. Everything felt well executed but I did note that the pacing of the dishes was a bit off mid-way through the meal.

If you find yourself in London, it’s definitely worth a visit. Although, it’s got some hefty competition in the city, as The Clove Club and The Ledbury are solid restaurants in their own right, too.

Blue Hill at Stone Barns

2023-05-26T00:00:00Z

It’s been quite the adventure, travelling the world to enjoy amazing food in incredible locations. The quest ended somewhat where it started: New York City.

While Saison was the first restaurant that I went to that was on the list the year I started this quest, Cosme, Eleven, and Le Bernardin in New York were the trio of restaurants that I first booked after deciding to eat my way around the world starting in June of 2018 while enjoying dinner in Amsterdam with Kitt and Andy, frequent companions along this five year adventure.

Blue Hill at Stone Barns made a fitting finish and equally fitting to have Kitt join me for this final restaurant. She and I met up and headed to Grand Central station to catch the train up to Tarrytown, the nearest stop to Pocantico Hills where Blue Hill is situated.

“How does it feel,” she asked, and honestly, I had mixed emotions. I stared at the ceiling of the station, the mural of constellations mapping the sky like my list had me mapping the world with restaurants as stars.

Many restaurant chefs have reached star status and Chef Dan Barber is no exception, having been featured in season one of Chef’s Table.

We arrived at four in the afternoon to take in a tour of the farm beforehand. It was a lovely and informative tour about how they manage the land and build their menu for the guests using fresh ingredients from the farm and city markets. Fresh white asparagus was pulled from the field. Some small samples of bread, and cheese, and drinks got us started.

Walking from the fields in towards the main building. The left peak covered in greenery is an old manure barn that we'll find ourselves in later.

Shortly after 5pm, we were sat in the main dining room and the flurry of spring vegetables hit the table. Ficoides and cucumber vines, hakurei turnips, ‘spinach’ lettuce and sassafrass, white asparagus, and kohlrabi. All served with an assortment of salts and sauces.

There were habanada peppers that were dried in a way that made them translucent. Empress flowers with cheese inside them. And peach thinning olives: peaches cut off early to help the rest of the tree produce better fruit.

A plate of meats included a retired dairy cow figatellu. It’s a bit unusual to hear all about the specific animal used for particular dish but I appreciated knowing that the chefs are really trying to consider the entire lifecycle of not only the vegetables but animals, as well.

The buckwheat, ramps, and plum was served with a shaving of cheese on top and was particular delicious. Then washed down with a glass of chufa milk. Then “the buckwheat family” which was a sweet dish that could have easily been served as a dessert.

This was maybe the halfway point of the meal.

Maine amberjack served with peas and strawberries. The sweetness really went well with the fish. Then bycatch butterfish and montauk squid. When trying to catch fish, butterfish is an inevitable but delicious bycatch that Blue Hill integrated into the dish.

The white asparagus, perfectly in season and perfectly seasoned, made an official appearance. Four year old oyster grilled was served with preserved eggplant.

Green saber celtuce was served with yoghurt, pine nuts, and strawberries—again, providing a bit of sweetness that was unexpected so far into the meal. Garleek with fava beans was next and I couldn’t miss the opportunity to make a joke about having a nice chianti.

Rounding out this “phase” of the meal was Maine halibut with peas from the greenhouse.

From there, we moved to a table in the kitchen. There were easily 20 cooks working away, including the inimitable and aforementioned Chef Dan.

Chef Dan and crew hard at work while we're seated in the kitchen

One of the cooks came over to have us try some barley in olive oil. It had an interesting bouncy texture. She mentioned that she had Celiac disease and couldn’t try it herself, which is fascinating. How do you prep a dish you can’t try yourself? (Which reminded me of Grant Achatz, from Alinea, who lost his sense of taste while battling sickness and had to rely on his crew to help.) We asked questions and made suggestions and she came back with a tin of newly prepared barley for us to try.

After that, was a barley pasta that reminded me of ramen noodles without the broth.

And then there was the experimental purple rice, bamboo, and black garlic. Again, delicious.

Once again, we move stations—this time, into the barn. This barn, we were told, was used to store manure many years ago. It has obviously been revamped into a candlelit, picturesque room overseeing the farm. The barn doors were open, the crickets were chirping. Blankets were provided to keep us warm but I had enough alcohol by that point to be toasty warm without it.

We were served pasture-raised lamb offal including brain butter, and a skewer with heart, kidney, and liver. And an over-wintered onion. A rich dish that provided some additional warmth for the cool spring air.

We’re brought back into the dining room where most everybody else had since completed their meals and left, leaving only three other tables and ourselves. Either we were eating slowly or they were giving us an extended experience worthy of being the last of such a long journey. Absolutely no complaints from me but there was still more to go.

The savoury dishes continued with Blue Hill Farm ricotta, six year old grass-fed beef ribeye, and a rotation grain tortilla and Hudson Valley mole with lamb jowl. Absolute perfection. (The taco felt like a throwback to our time at Pujol, which we mentioned during our time in the kitchen. Was this preplanned or a last minute addition? I don’t know but c’mon, how perfect is that?)

We finally get to the desserts. Blueberry, yoghurt and blackcurrant. Einkorn and caramelized honey. Strawberries and beets that looked like meat but tasted like anything but. It was so good.

Oh, and a surprise piece of birthday cake!

To wrap up our meal, we had our petit fours: chufa cones, bananas from the greenhouse, preserved peaches and apricots, and first of the strawberries. The bananas are an experiment to try to grow them in the northern climate, most of which didn’t make it. These bananas were from what survived and they were delicious.

The focus on sustainability reminded me a lot of my experience at Alchemist. The amount of creativity at Blue Hill to build a menu that is different each evening and even different at each table is astounding.

Blue Hill was a fantastic experience and was probably the perfect way to finish off this incredible adventure. The service was friendly and attentive¹, the food was delicious, and the wine pairings were a great accompaniment. I highly recommend going.

With this journey coming to a close, I have some final thoughts...

My only begrudging comment is that the service staff twice accidentally served us sparkling water instead of still water. Both times, the issue was quickly rectified. ↩︎